This sweet and striking variety of citrus, which has the botanical name Citrus sinensis, is believed to have originated in Asia, but are now grown in warm climates across the globe including the Mediterranean, parts of the US, and of course, here in sunny Australia.

What are the different varieties of blood orange?

There are a number of different types of blood oranges, but these are the most common ones you’re likely to find in Australia:

• Arnold
• Maltese
• Ruby Blood
• Tarocco Ippolito
• Tarocco Meli
• Tarocco Rosso

How to grow blood oranges

Blood oranges are just like other citrus plants in that they love full sun, well-drained soil and plenty of water throughout the warmer months. They prefer hot summers and mild, dry winters – seasonal conditions that promote fruit colouration. Cropping can extend for several months from winter to spring, and fruit will remain fresh and juicy if left on the tree.

When it comes to planting or potting your blood orange tree, you’ll want to opt for deep, free-draining soil with lots of compost. Using lightly acidic soil and sheltering your tree from strong winds should help your blood orange thrive, as will a good citrus fertiliser.

Depending on the variety and whether or not the tree is potted, blood oranges can grow as tall as six metres, but usually are grown and pruned to around two metres in height. They can be planted any time of the year, but autumn and spring are preferred.

How long does it take for a blood orange tree to fruit?

It typically takes blood orange trees a year or two before they begin to bear fruit, and when they do, it’s recommended that all young fruit be removed to ensure sustained growth as your tree matures. But your patience and effort will pay off in the long-run; once your tree is established and happy, it will produce delicious and juicy fruit, usually around autumn to late spring.

Care and maintenance

We recommend feeding your blood oranges four times a year between late winter and autumn with a balanced, granular organic fertiliser. Hand-weed around the tree to avoid harming surface-feeding roots and maintain a 5–7cm layer of organic mulch over the soil under the leaf canopy. Don’t allow mulch to touch the trunk. For the juiciest oranges, water regularly, especially when fruit is forming. Immature fruit drop indicates irregular watering during fruit development.

Citrus need pruning for shaping rather than fruit production. It’s important to remove any shoots emerging from below the graft union and any shoots that are weak or spindly. As the tree grows, regularly remove any dead wood. Harvest time is the best time to shape young trees. Keep the best upright stems, and aim to create an open, vase-shaped crown, strong enough to support a heavy crop. Cut off fruit when harvesting to avoid damage.

Pests and diseases

Unfortunately, there are a number of pests and diseases you’ll need to keep an eye out for. Here’s what you need to know:

• Bronze orange bugs feed during warm seasons, weakening young trees. Spray with horticultural oil in winter while the pest is in its nymphal stage.

• Sooty mould blackens foliage, a sign that scale insects or aphids are feeding on sap. Spray thoroughly with horticultural oil.

• Citrus leaf miner tunnel through the tissue of new leaves, distorting them. Spray new growth regularly with a horticultural spray oil to deter egg-laying.

• Fruit fly may attack during autumn, so monitor with baits and traps and use a splash bait on foliage if fruit fly is about.

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If you long for a white Christmas, save yourself the airfare and surround yourself with snow-white flowers and ivory petals that fall like snowflakes. Outside, there’s a white flower for every spot in the garden. Green and white is a classic combination that lends itself to a variety of different garden styles, from cottage style gardens to hardy coastal landscapes that feature stunning silver plants and white flowers for softeness and fragrance.

Gardenias are arguably the most popular white flowering plant, found in many Australian gardens, followed by frangipanis, hydragenas, magnolias and star jasmine. Whether it’s their fragrance you love or simply their classic beauty and charm they bring to a garden, these white flowering plants are popular for reason.

The most-popular plants with white flowers to grow in your garden

1. Gardenias

Gardenias are perfect for areas exposed to the morning sun. Their soft, ivory flowers curl deliciously in the centre and look beautiful in vases or float bowls; their sweet scent filling the room.

Good varieties to look for include Gardenia ‘Florida’, which flowers non-stop through the warmer months, while ‘Magnifica’ is larger in flower and form.

Placate gardenias with rich soil, good food and regular water. Continually pick the blooms to keep the plant flowering and compact. Feed gardenias every three months and mulch with well-rotted manures to prevent leaves from yellowing.

2. Star jasmine

Enclose your garden in clusters of sweetly scented star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides). This perfectly behaved climber with emerald-green foliage and delicate white blooms needs wire for support and will thrive in both sun and shade.

Train star jasmine to grow along wires on a wall or fence; trim them into brilliant topiaries or grow them as a ground cover. Lightly prune jasmine after flowering to keep it compact.

3. Frangipani

Shake a frangipani tree and watch the flowers fall from the boughs to create a pretty carpet. Their beauty is not limited to the great outdoors, you can also add the flowers to your bath or sprinkle them in float bowls.

Keep frangipanis healthy with a canopy check in early spring, removing any spongy or diseased branches. Trees grow to five metres and are great for garden shade. The common white frangipani grows well in containers, but resist watering in winter and gently feed during spring and summer.

4. Agapanthus

Plants with bold, strappy foliage create focal points in the garden. Groupings of white agapanthus offer giant starbursts of white blooms.

Plant them in areas of full sun and choose white-flowering cultivars such as ‘Snowgoose’, ‘Snowball’ and ‘Snowstorm’ for more abundant and longer-lasting flowers. Feed plants with a complete fertiliser in autumn and spring and always remove finished flower heads.

5. Philadelphus (Mock Orange)

The Philadelphus plant is a hardy, deciduous plant native to many temperate regions of the world, including south-eastern Europe, North and Central America, and even in the Himalayas. Its small, white to cream flowers are celebrated for their heady aroma that’s reminiscent to that of orange blossoms – giving way to its common name, the “mock orange”.

6. Wild Iris

Wild Iris (Dietes grandiflora) is easy to grow and flowers reliably in sun and shade. Enjoy its long, strappy green foliage all year round and pretty, iris-like flowers with soft blue centres at Christmas time. Remove entire flower stems after flowering.

7. Hibiscus

White Hibiscus ‘Swan Lake’ grows happily in full sun or dappled shade. When visitors arrive, pick the blooms and float them in outdoor water bowls or around the pool.

Hibiscus can grow quite large, which gives a wild tropical feel to your garden, but if you want to keep it contained, prune after frosts in winter.

Considering hibiscus only flower on new growth, pruning will keep the flowers at eye level. Feed plants every season with well-rotted manures and fertiliser. To prevent hibiscus beetle, spray plants with organic plant oils every four weeks during the warmer months and use Confidor, a broad-spectrum insecticide, during spring.

8. Waterlilies

On a deck or in a courtyard, a large vessel filled with white waterlilies is simply beautiful. Tropical white waterlilies flower at night and close in the heat of the day. Try ‘Wood’s White Knight’ variety for stunning aquatic flora. Their large lily pads cool the water and provide a perfect habitat for frogs and fish.

9. Cactus

Sun-loving ‘Queen of the Night’ cactus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum) is the party girl of the plant world, bursting into flower in the dark of night and closing at dawn. In subtropical climates they love to grow on the trunks of trees where you can forget about them until Christmas, when their huge buds open at dusk to reveal enormous ivory blooms with a full fragrance.

10. Hydrangeas

Side passages and south-facing gardens tend to be cold, dark and drab. Inject life into these spots with white hydrangeas and white-flowering ground covers such as Liriope (Liriope muscari variegata), Lamium (Lamium maculatium) and Sutera (Sutera bacopa).

Hydrangea are brilliant for Christmas displays and their soft, full flowers add volume to any arrangement. Extend their vase life by cutting stems on a 45-degree angle under water.

Preferring the southern areas of the house, hydrangeas must be kept moist and mulched with well-rotted manures.

If you prefer an evergreen shrub for shade, rather than a deciduous hydrangea, don’t forget Spider lilies (Crinum pedunculatum or Hymenocallis littoralis); their broad green leaves remain lush and green all year with a pretty display of fine white spidery flowers.

Designing with white

• In the garden, use white flowers to add a classic touch – white helps to lift the energy and draw the eye.
• Use white variegated leafed plants as visual starbursts, attracting the eye to areas of the garden you wish to highlight
• Use white flowers in the shade to brighten up dark spots

11. White waratah

These magnificent flowers are native to eastern Australia and are usually red. This rare white form is known as ‘Wirrimbirra White’. The waratah flowers in spring.

12. Flannel flower

These white ‘petals’ have a felted texture and are actually bracts surrounding the tiny true flowers clustered in the centre. Flannel flowers grow from seed or cutting and flower in spring and summer.

13. White chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemums, particularly white varieties, are traditional bouquets given to mothers on Mother’s Day in Australia. They light up gardens in autumn.

14. Foxglove

Foxgloves have tall spires of flowers 50cm to 100cm high. Usually mauvy pink there are also white forms that look striking in flower gardens. Foxgloves flower in spring and summer.

15. Magnolia

There are many different varieties of magnolia, each producing a different flower. Many magnolias have pink-coloured flowers but some produce pure white blooms that make a classic, scuptural statement in any garden. Little Gem is a popular magnolia variety that produces white fragrant flowers with rounded petals that are smaller than other magolia flowers such as the Magnolia Grandiflora and Macrophylla.

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Plants can bring new dimensions to your garden in the form of striking foliage colours and textures, particularly natives, of which there are an estimated 24,000 different species! Here, we look at seven versatile and tolerant natives that will bring colour and depth into your garden in different, intriguing ways.

1. Syzygium ‘Big Red’

The ‘Big Red’ is a great medium-sized lillypilly. Its glossy deep red new growth really sets off the plant with the tips having a dark crimson glow about them. This variety is fast growing and makes the perfect hedge specimen – great for screening the neighbours or hiding the shed. You can trim it to any shape you like and it is also widely used as topiary specimen.

2. Acacia ‘Limelight’

The Acacia ‘Limelight‘ is famed for its lush, lime green foliage and compact shape, and is the perfect plant if you want to add some wow factor to your garden.

This ornamental beauty won the country over after it was introduced to the market by plant gurus Native Plant Wholesalers in South Australia. It’s remained Australia’s best-selling Acacia cognata variety ever since. Limelight is compact and dense and great for both modern and traditional gardens.

3. Coastal tea tree

Coastal tea tree (Leptospermum laevigatum) can really be considered the native answer to low hedging and is a fantastic alternative to the traditional English Box hedge. With outstanding resilience to the harshest of coastal conditions, the coastal tea tree tolerates salt sprays and salt-laden winds. It has great grey-green foliage and bronze-coloured new growth.

This plant is a great solution for coastal areas, poolside gardens and narrow spaces.

4. Grevillea ‘Fire Cracker’

If you’re after flowers during winter to add a dash of interest, there are some great low-growing natives available. Grevillea ‘Fire Cracker’ has a compact, rounded habit with small evergreen leaves.

Firecracker boasts an extensive flowering period, typically coming into bloom in late April through until October. The explosion of fiery red and yellow flowers makes a stunning show over a long period.

5. Grevillea ‘Deua Gold’

‘Deua Gold’ is another bright beauty worth adding to your garden. Its rich gold flowers adorn the plant for most of the year, but it really peaks over the winter months.

Named for its origins near the Deua National Park in New South Wales, ‘Deua Gold’ is a superb performer in tough landscape conditions.

6. Heath-leaved banksia

Arguably the most beautiful variety, heath-leaved banksia (Banksia ericifolia) flowers in autumn and winter with a striking bright orange-red colour and long lantern shape.

Heathery foliage is frost and salt-spray tolerant, growing in Central and Northern New South Wales, east of the Great Dividing Range. Along with having large flower heads, the heath-leaved banksia can also grow to around six metres tall, adding height and texture to your garden.

7. Silver princess eucalyptus

If you want to add a point of drama to your garden, silver princess eucalyptus (Eucalyptus caesia) is a fantastic medium-sized evergreen tree perfectly suited to the task. The shimmering foliage and weeping habit make it a striking addition to any garden. Dramatic pink-red blooms appear from May and last through to September, and will attract native birds and beneficial insects to the garden.

The tree, which can grow up to six metres in height, is also drought-tolerant and frost-resistant, making it ideal for low-maintenance gardens.

Can you plant Australian natives in winter?

Yes, you can plant your natives in winter. According to Australian Native Nursery, planting natives is best done in the cooler months, from autumn through to early spring, thanks to milder conditions and higher rainfall. Being mostly evergreen plants, natives will continue to grow throughout the seasons, and can even be planted in summer provided you water them regularly.

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There are so many different varieties of pumpkin grown all over Australia, but you’ll only see a small portion of these represented on supermarket shelves. Whether you’re looking to grow your own or pick up a popular variety from the supermarket, there are usually options year-round. Here are 5 of the most common pumpkin varieties available in Australia, how to grow them, plus tips on how to use each variety in everything from salads, to scones and more!

For more pumpkin facts, check out our guide to prepping, cooking and storing in-season pumpkins.

If you want to transform pumpkin from a side-kick into a main meal, try these recipes:

• How to make butternut pumpkin fruitcake
• How to make pumpkin scones

Pumpkin recipes

Which month is the best to plant pumpkin?

Pumpkins are not lovers of cold weather or frost — so the best time of year to plant them is in December. You can purchase seeds, or attempt to use the seeds within a store-bought pumpkin. Many people have ended up with an accidental pumpkin plant this way!

What are the best conditions for growing pumpkins?

Pumpkin plants enjoy full sun, so select a non-shady spot with well-drained soil that is at least 1 metre square to allow the vines to grow outward.

Water reguarly when you notice dry soil or conditions, and mulch to help retain moisture. Harvest your pumpkins when they’re ripe. You can test your pumpkin’s readiness by tapping: a ripe pumpkin will make a hollow sound, and the stalk also should have withered and turned brown.

What is the best pumpkin for roasting in Australia?

Butternut pumpkin (called butternut squash in the US) tends to be the top choice when it comes to roasting. Butternut pumpkin has dense, slightly sweet flesh and is by far one of the most versatile varieties in the kitchen.

What is the benefit of eating pumpkin?

As well as tasting great, pumpkins are highly nutritious — they’re packed with proteins, good carbohydrates, carotenoids, antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals. According to a medically reviewed article published on WebMD, the benefits of including pumpkin in your diet are huge; it’s great for your skin, is high in fibre, can improve both eye, gut and heart health, and supports your immune system.

The 5 most common pumpkin varieties in Australia

Golden Nugget pumpkin

This pumpkin variety is probably the best bet for a small yard or balcony garden: unlike its cousins, it is small fruiting and compact, making it perfect for a large tub. Particularly delicious when roasted, these pumpkins are also great for stuffing.

Jap or Kent pumpkin

Short for Japanese pumpkin, it also goes by ‘Kent’. This delicious member of the pumpkin family has been described as the ‘foodie’s pumpkin’ and for good reason: it has wonderful flavour and is very versatile. It has ribbed, grey-green mottled skin and is best suited to grow in warm or tropical climates.

Queensland Blue pumpkin

Flying the flag for Australia, the Queensland Blue pumpkin is home-bred-and-born but popular throughout the world. Besides its characteristic blue-grey and deeply ribbed skin, it’s perhaps best known for its amazing keeping time – 100 to 140 days. Pureed Queensland pumpkins are perfect for pumpkin scones.

Turk’s Turban pumpkin

This interesting-looking specimen is an heirloom variety grown more for aesthetics than dinner table glory, but still it is great roasted or made into soup.

Butternut pumpkin

One of the best-known pumpkin varieties for its shape, quick growing time and versatility. It marries well with strong flavours like blue cheese or spices like cumin and grows well all across most of Australia. Butternut pumpkin is also great for sweet dishes, like pumpkin fruitcake and pumpkin pie.

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If your frangipani tree is affected, it’s likely you’ll notice it during the summer months, after cycles of heavy rainfall and hot temperatures.

Here’s a quick run-down of what frangipani rust is, how to identify it, and what you can do to prevent and treat it.

What is frangipani rust?

Frangipani rust is a plant disease that originated in Central and South America. It has spread through eastern Australia, from Queensland to central New South Wales, and is moving south.

The disease forms powdery, yellow-orange pustules on the underside of the frangipani leaves which reduces the plant’s ability to photosynthesise.

While the disease is unlikely to kill the tree, it will eventually cause defoliation (especially in younger trees) from its inability to photosynthesise.

How to identify frangipani rust

On the upper surface of infected leaves, chlorotic spots or lesions form which can reduce the area of the leaf that’s able to photosynthesise. If you run your finger along the underside of an affected leaf, your finger will turn reddish-brown. The pustules may spread to cover the leaf surface which, in severe cases, can cause defoliation.

The disease is at its worst during warm and humid weather. Young leaves tend to be more resistant as their higher latex content inhibits the spore germination. The disease is unlikely to kill trees even if defoliated. New leaves will sprout next season.

Can frangipani rust spread to other plants?

Frangipani rust is an airborne disease where the spores can travel many kilometres with a strong breeze or just to nearby plants. It can even reinfect the original plant.

How to get rid of frangipani rust

Unfortunately, there is no miraculous treatment that will get rid of frangipani rust. No sprays are registered against it in Australia. While the disease may look unsightly, if your tree has already matured, you may want to consider just leaving it as is and focus instead on managing the spread of the disease.

• Remove infected leaves as soon as you spot them but, to avoid spores dropping onto healthy leaves, try not to shake them as you do so
• Do not compost infected leaves or touch healthy leaves after handling infected ones
• No products are registered specifically against frangipani rust but myclobutanil and copper are registered for rust in ornamentals

How to prevent frangipani rust

• Check the leaves on plants for pustules when buying.
• Prevent the disease spreading through your garden by practising good garden hygiene. Rake up fallen leaves during winter
• Don’t wet leaves when watering if pustules are present on leaves
• Some varieties of frangipani are more susceptible than others. Ask your local nursery for advice.

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From lemons and limes to oranges and mandarins, here’s everything you need to know about growing happy and healthy citrus trees in pots.

Which citrus varieties grow in pots?

Lots a’ Lemons and Dwarf Eureka, both lemons, are two popular citrus varieties that grow in pots. For a small lime try Dwarf Tahitian or one of the Australian native limes, like the finger lime, also known as the ‘caviar of citrus’.

Citrus splitzers are multi-grafted citrus that provide the best of both worlds, bearing both lime and lemons (and other combinations) on one plant and are ideal for large pots. Mandarins, cumquats and calamondins also make good potted plants.

How to grow citrus trees in pots

Select a large pot to grow your citrus tree and put the pot into its final position before you begin to fill it with potting mix. A happy citrus tree home will be a pot with several large drainage holes in the bottom that is elevated slightly off the ground. This can be easily achieved by raising the pot on pot feet or bricks.

Once you’ve selected the right pot, don’t skimp on potting mix. Buy a good quality mix that meets the Australian standard (look for ticks of approval on the bag) and make sure you have enough to fill the pot to within about 4cm of the rim to allow space for watering. For a large pot — one that’s over 40cm in diameter — you’ll need several bags.

Modern potting mixes provide good drainage, but for a plant that’s going to be in a large pot for a long time, it is best to add about 10 per cent soil to the potting mix, combining it well. This prevents the mix from slumping — that is, diminishing in the pot — so the plant is sitting well below the top of the pot. Water the plant in well, firming it into the potting mix.

How to care for potted citrus trees

It’s little wonder citrus trees are a popular choice for home gardens big and small, but while they are famously known for being easy to grow, giving your citrus regular care and attention goes a long way. Here’s what you need to know to get the most from your potted citrus.

How much sun do potted citrus trees need?

Citrus need full sun, something we fortunately have an abundance of in Australia. This means placing them in the sunniest part of your garden or balcony, especially during winter when they fruit. While citrus trees are happiest in warm, sunny conditions, there are some varieties that are more cold-tolerant such as the Meyer lemon and Satsuma mandarin.

How often should you water potted citrus trees?

Potted citrus need to be watered two to three times a week. In very hot or windy weather, particularly when your tree is in flower or forming small fruit, it may need deep daily watering. Always make sure the water soaks into the potting mix and doesn’t simply run through without soaking in.

Citrus trees also need to be well nourished. The best way to provide all the nutrients they need is to use a complete citrus food. This should be applied in small amounts once a month from August to mid-autumn. Water the pot well when applying any fertiliser.

How long does it take for a potted citrus tree to fruit?

Generally, citrus trees take around three years to begin bearing fruit, provided they have adequate sunlight and good drainage. Like any gardening endeavour, patience is key. Once your citrus tree begins flowering, know that fruit should be on the horizon, and once your citrus tree starts exploding with fruit, it will likely continue for decades to come.

Common potted citrus pests

To avoid pest problems, regularly spray new growth with horticultural spray oil such as PestOil. This treatment controls pesky citrus leafminer and aphids along with sap suckers like spined citrus bugs.

Shop the best pots and planters for citrus trees

01

Ryker Stonelite round planter

$274, Temple & Webster

Designed to endure harsh weather conditions, this white planter provides a sturdy and chic home for your citrus tree. At 53cm in height, width and depth, this minimalist pot is also a great size for dwarf citrus plants.

Key features:

• Crafted from 100% polyethylene
• Ridged design adds dimension and texture
• 30-day return policy

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02

Northcote Kriti extra large terracotta pot

$35.18, Bunnings

Add a touch of Mediterranean charm with this extra-large terracotta pot from Bunnings. Not only are terracotta pots timeless and rustic, but they are also naturally porous, reducing the risk of root rot.

Key features:

• Drainage hole
• Porous clay construction increases drainage
• Classic design and rustic charm

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03

Freedom Avutto large planter in grey

$199, Freedom

Made from a blend of stone, powder stone, plastic and fibreglass, the Avutto garden planter is built to withstand the elements and look chic doing it. Thanks to its large size and bowl-shaped silhouette, the Avutto will make a spacious home for your new citrus plant.

Key features:

• Made from a durable blend of stone, power stone, plastic and fibreglass
• Chic grey design
• Wide bowl shape provides plenty of room for growth

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04

Northcote Green studded pot

$99.98, Bunnings

If you’re after a glazed look, this gorgeous green pot ticks all the boxes. Not only does it offer an eye-catching shiny look, but a glazed pot like this one offers reduced water loss (a tick so long as you have drainage holes) and plenty of support to the weight of a mature citrus tree.

Key features:

• Handcrafted glaze finish
• Drainage holes
• Gorgeous green shade and studded detail

Shop Now

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Citrus trees are some of the easiest fruit trees to grow in Australian gardens. Their popularity is deserved — they are ornamental yet productive, have handsome, shiny green leaves and fragrant flowers. Not to mention they add wonderful flavours and zing to your cooking.

Equipped with these growing tips and everything you need to know about citrus tree care, whether in pots or in the ground, you’ll be harvesting box loads of fruit in no time at all.

Where to position citrus trees in your garden for the most fruit

Citrus plants love sunshine — and need a required five hours a day for maximum fruiting. In order to achieve this, planting them in a north-facing, warm and sunny position is best. In cooler climates, grow them alongside a sunny wall, where radiated heat will warm them. Alternatively, bring pots inside during winter.

Citrus plants like water, but any water must drain away quickly and not pool in the root zone. To prevent this, before planting, dig a hole in a potential planting spot and fill with water. If it takes more than 30 minutes to drain, the drainage is inadequate. Mound the soil or choose another spot.

When to feed citrus trees

Citrus trees have shallow feeder roots that need protection with mulching (the mulch shouldn’t touch the trunk) and feeding with citrus food and organic pellets throughout each season. Mature trees need two kilograms each of fertiliser and citrus food applied to the drip line each season.

Start young trees off with 200 grams of food and build up the amount as they grow. When grown as a garden tree, your citrus should be trained into four main branches. Open up the centre of the plant to increase airflow, and cut back shoots to a few buds after fruiting. Prune the young shoots to create bushiness.

Choose a citrus grafted onto a rootstock suitable for your local environment and soil type. Trifoliata rootstock creates a dwarf tree, which is cold-tolerant and resistant to collar rot, so it’s ideal for heavy soils and cool areas. Citrange rootstock makes a faster-growing, taller tree, intolerant of poor drainage, so it’s ideal for coastal areas.

• Five hours of sunshine a day is needed for maximum fruiting.
• Citrus likes water but only if it drains quickly. Infrequent, deep watering is best.
• In cold climates, plant the tree in spring, when the soil has warmed up. In warm areas, trees can also be planted in autumn.
• Citrus trees don’t need pruning to fruit well.

How to produce the most fruit from citrus trees

Growing citrus in small spaces

Do you want to grow citrus but don’t have the room for big trees? One solution is to train your citrus flat against a warm, north-facing fence, a technique known as espalier.

Plant them at 1.2–1.5-metre intervals, about 30cm from the fence. Tie the stems to horizontal wires along the fence and place the wires about 20cm apart. This way the trees don’t encroach on the garden, but provide an evergreen screen to hide the fence.

How to grow lots of fruit on potted citrus trees

Everyone with a spot of sun can[grow citrus in a pot, but be aware they need constant care, feeding and watering to produce a healthy crop. Half wine barrels (or pots of a similar size) and quality potting mix are needed. Choose a citrus grafted to Flying Dragon — a dwarfing rootstock that limits the growth of the tree, but not the fruit, and is ideal for pots.

Potted citrus needs root pruning at least every three years. This entails pulling the tree out of its pot, cutting 5cm off the roots all around the root ball with a bread knife and replanting into the same pot with some fresh potting mix and citrus food. This will make a significant difference to the number of fruit you will get the following season.

When do lemon trees fruit in Australia?

While lemon trees generally bear fruit in Australia between late autumn and winter, in regions with mild weather, lemon trees can continue to produce multiple fruits throughout the year.

Can you have too many lemons on a tree?

Whether it is worth removing some fruit from your flowering citrus tree is actually a commonly asked question. While it may seem counterproductive for those wishing to bear plenty of fruit, if a tree — or its branches — can no longer support the amount of fruit it has produced, you can end up coming away with nothing.

Similarly, just as is often the case with oversized vegetables, there is a correlation between quantity and quality when it comes to citrus fruit. Overcrowded fruit can often be smaller in size and less tasty.

In order to avoid this, it is best to remove some of the fruit, leaving behind the pieces closest to the thickest part of the branch.

What is the best fertiliser for citrus trees

Sunshine, quick-draining soil, airflow, infrequent deep watering and seasonal feeding, in addition to the right fertiliser are the keys to citrus success. In cold climates, plant the tree in spring, when the soil has warmed up. In warm areas, trees can also be planted in autumn. The best fertiliser for citrus trees include well-rotted cow manures, potash, blood and bone or a handful of garden lime each year. Planting on mounded soil will prevent drainage problems, collar rot and fungal diseases.

The best citrus fertilizer in Australia in 2024

01

Scotts Osmocote Organic Plus Fruit and Citrus 800g

from $13.46 at Amazon

Best for: organic fruit

This plant food and soil improver has been formulated to boost flowering and fruiting of all citrus trees including lemon, lime, mandarin and oranges. It consists of blends of organic fertiliser and Osmocote that conditions the soil for up to 6 months.

Key features:

• Specifically designed for fruit and citrus
• Feeds for 6 months
• Promotes production of large, juicy fruit

Shop now

02

Brunnings Organic Blood & Bone Based Fertiliser 2.5kg

from $14 at Woolworths

Best for: slow release nutrients

Brunnings Blood & Bone based fertiliser is a traditional organic fertiliser that releases its nutrients slowly into the soil. This is a suitable choice for citrus plants as the nitrogen and phosphorus formula will encourage healthy growth.

Key features:

• 2.5kg bag
• Suitable for all types of plants
• Can be applied very six weeks for best results

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03

Charlie Carp All Purpose Fertiliser 1L

from $10.86 at Amazon

Best for: liquid fertiliser

Suitable for veggies, orchids, roses and of course, citrus trees, the Charlie Carp liquid fertiliser is a natural solution made from the invasive introduced species of European Carp. It provides a quick and simple boost of nutrients and oils to give your citrus the boost it needs.

Key features:

• Ready-to-use liquid fertiliser
• Rich in protein, Omega 3 oils, nutrients and trace elements
• Proudly Australian made
• Makes 300L

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04

Brunnings Organic Fruit & Citrus Food 2.5kg

from $14 at Woolworths

Best for: abundant fruit-set on trees

The Brunnings formula combines organic nutrients with fertilisers to produce healthy juicy fruit in citrus plants. It is ready to use and simple to sprinkle on a wide variety of citrus and fruits, that continues to release nutrients for months.

Key features:

• 2.5kg bag
• Organic and fast acting nutrients including Potassium.
• Helps to produces large juicy fruit

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How to grow citrus trees and inject some zest into your garden

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How to grow citrus trees in pots

What to consider when choosing a citrus tree

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Here are the main reasons lemon trees develop yellow leaves and, most importantly, how to get them back to green and lush for a fruitful harvest.

Reasons your lemon tree leaves are turning yellow

Decoding what your plant is trying to tell you can be tricky, but if you address these common causes, you should be able to get your lemon tree back on track. And while older leaves may not return to green after applying these remedies, the yellow leaves should fall and allow for new green leaves in their place.

1. Not enough fertiliser

Lemons burn through lots of nutrients. When the tree runs out of nutrients its older leaves may become yellow. Applying a complete citrus food twice a year, aiming for mid-summer and late winter, should help your lemon tree get the growing power it needs.

Water well before and after applying fertiliser. Spread the fertiliser over the soil around the tree. Follow the application rates suggested on the container. The best way to provide all the nutrients citrus trees need is to use a complete citrus food.

2. Not enough iron

A lack of iron can also cause lemon tree leaves to yellow. As a quick fix, water the tree with iron chelates, a form of soluble iron available from most garden centres and hardware stores.

3. Not enough water

Lemon trees need regular and deep watering that reaches the root system. When plants dry out they don’t get enough nutrients. Lack of water can be a major problem for containerised trees.

After watering, check that the water has soaked into the soil and not simply drained away leaving the roots dry. If the soil below the surface is still dry, apply a soil wetting agent to encourage the soil or potting mix to better absorb water, and then water again.

Citrus tolerate a range of soil types, but thrive in light soils with good drainage. The ideal pH level should sit between 6.0 and 7.0. Unfortunately, this type of soil is hard to find naturally in Australia, so a bag of loamy or sandy loam soil will go a long way in helping your citrus grow.

What is the best soil for citrus trees?

4. Common lemon tree pests

Citrus bugs, scale and aphids can affect the health of the lemon and its leaves. Seeing ants along the stems is a sign that the tree has pests. Aphids appear on new growth and can be squashed or hosed off. Scale typically appears on the stems or backs of leaves.

Apply horticultural spray oil according to the instructions on the container. Adult citrus bugs are green and with care can be knocked from the tree into a container of soapy water. Wear sunglasses when doing this as these pests squirt a toxic liquid that can burn eyes. Spraying with horticultural oil in winter reduces pest numbers and without the pests, the ants too should disappear.

5. Too cold

Lemon trees prefer a warm subtropical climate, but grow in cooler climates if sheltered from cold winds and cold winter conditions. When the tree is cold, its roots are unable to absorb enough nutrients to keep the leaves green so they turn yellow.

Shelter lemons from cold winds with plastic, a screen or a hedge. Keep the plant watered through winter but don’t apply fertiliser until spring when temperatures increase and the tree shows signs of new growth.

6. Rootbound

Lemons that are grown in pots may outgrow the space in one to two years, leaving the plant unable to take up enough water and nutrients to thrive.

To provide more space, repot the lemon into a slightly larger pot with fresh potting mix. Select a good quality potting mix and work in about 10 per cent by volume of compost. For long-term success, grow a dwarf lemon in a large pot.

Depending on the variety, lemon trees can grow up to around four or five metres tall, sometimes even higher, when planted in the ground. Dwarf varieties, like the popular Dwarf Meyer Lemon, tend not to surpass the two metre mark.

How tall do lemon trees grow?

7. Engulfed in weeds

Lemons don’t like sharing. To keep trees green, leafy and productive remove all competing weeds and grass from under and around a lemon tree. Replace the weeds with a 2-5cm layer of coarse organic mulch mixed with aged manure. Keep mulch away from the tree trunk.

The best products for a thriving lemon tree

01

Honest to Goodness Epsom Salt, Magnesium Sulphate, 5kg

$24.15, Amazon

Best for: addressing magnesium deficiency

Light green or yellow blotches on your lemon tree leaves can be a sign of magnesium deficiency. A quick way to fix this common issue is by adding a teaspoon of Epsom salts into two litres of water and distributing it evenly into the soil surrounding the tree.

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02

Yates Insect Control Spray

$14.30, Woolworths

Best for: controlling pests without causing leaf burn

Pests like mealy bugs and aphids crawling all over your lemon tree is a common cause of yellow leaves but, regular spritzes of a horticultural spray oil should fix that. This one from Yates even includes a UV inhibitor that helps prevent leaf burn during hot weather.

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03

Yates Iron Chelate Leaf Greener Conditioner

$31.99, Amazon

Best for: correcting iron deficiency

Low iron levels can also be a cause of yellow leaves, so an iron chelate product like this one from Yates is a great way to deliver a dose of iron directly to deficient leaves.

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04

Avutto White Planter Large

$139.30, Freedom

Best for: stylishly housing your citrus tree

Yellowing leaves can often signal that your potted lemon tree has outgrown its home. The good news is that the solution is simple: repot the tree into a larger pot, like this minimalist weather-resistant one from Freedom. Generally, repotting needs to happen every two years to keep growing lemon trees happy.

Get more citrus gardening tips

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The new growth from a rosemary plant is ideal to make softwood cuttings. They’re called this because they are taken from the soft new shoots, rather than harder wood further down the stem. Be prepared – propagating rosemary and other similar plants may become somewhat of an obsession, as you’ll quickly discover how many plants strike extremely easily.

Plus, did you know you could propagate rosemary with honey? We asked the Little Veggie Patch Co to show us how.

Step-by-step on how to propagate rosemary

• Start by taking 15cm snips off your rosemary bush.
• Strip the lower leaves from the base of the stem, leaving about 3cm of bare stem. Roots will grow from the leaf nodules.
• Dip the end of the stem in honey. Honey is a natural substitute for synthetic rooting hormones and will nourish the cutting, while promoting root growth.
• Plant it in potting mix and water it like any other seedling.
• Give it about 4 weeks before the roots develop before finding a home for it in the garden.

Can you root rosemary cuttings in water?

Aside from honey, there are other ways to get your rosemary cutting to form roots. Put your cuttings in fresh water until roots form, or place them into sand. Cuttings in water will typically produce roots faster, while those in sand tend to be stronger once transferred to soil.

What month do you take rosemary cuttings?

Rosemary cuttings that will be used to propagate new plants are best taken in late spring through to summer while the shoots are still springy, but not so soft that they will wilt in the heat of the day.

Regularly taking cuttings and pruning your rosemary bush will encourage it to focus on new growth rather.

Can you root rosemary cuttings in water?Benefits of growing rosemary plants

There are countless benefits to growing your own rosemary plants from cuttings. Rosemary is not only a fragrant garnish to cook with, but the herb has plenty of other purposes. Dried rosemary, either left to happen naturally or done in the oven, is a wonderful and sustainable addition to any craft table. It looks beautiful when styled on a table settings or as the finishing touch to a gift. Rosemary can also be used to make beautiful natural soaps.

See more on propagating plants

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Many of the problems that can plague gardenias will take hold during winter and early spring due to drops in temperature. Here, we run through some of the main causes gardenia leaves turn yellow, flowers to drop off, other commonly searched gardenia planting questions.

So here’s how to care for this beautiful, white-flowering plant and keep it in tip-top condition all year round.

Why are my gardenia leaves going yellow?

Gardenia problems are common during winter and early spring as flower buds dropping and yellow foliage usually occurs because of the cold. Luckily, preventing gardenia leaves from turning yellow is easy when you understand the root cause.

If leaves yellow on your gardenias into the warmer months, it’s likely to be a lack of iron and/or magnesium.

Magnesium deficiency first affects old leaves, so if you see a drop in older leaves, sprinkle a teaspoon of Epsom salts around the plant and water in.

Iron deficiency on the other hand, first affects new leaves. If you notice a drop in newly grown leaves, apply iron chelates to the plant and treat in late spring and again in summer.

Why are my gardenia leaves dropping off?

Older, lower leaves fall as new leaves and shoots are produced in warm weather, so don’t panic if it’s the change of season. You can also expect some winter leaf drop in cooler climates.

• The genus Gardenia includes about 60 species from the tropics and subtropics of Africa, Asia, Australia and the Pacific.
• This small tree grows up to 5m high with large, short-lived, richly perfumed flowers. It has two mass flowerings, in spring and again in summer. But the number one gardenia is the common gardenia, Gardenia jasminoides (formerly G. augusta), a native of China and Japan.
• ‘Florida’ is the main variety grown, with the larger ‘Magnifica’ and the low-growing ‘Radicans’ coming second and third.

What you should know about gardenias:

How do you take care of gardenias in Australia?

The leafy flowering shrubs are found in warm climates, which make them perfect for Australian gardens. Gardenias love a warm sunny or partly shady spot in acidic soil that is watered weekly on average. Warmer days mean the plant will need need more frequent watering, but be careful not to overwater!

How to maintain and take care of gardenias:

Gardenias relish even moisture, but their roots rapidly rot in poorly drained soils, so if you use saucers under your pots always tip any water out of them. Feed gardenias monthly from late spring to the end of summer, when they actively take up nutrients. Use poultry manure sparingly or feed with a flower and fruit fertiliser or seaweed tonic.

Gardenias also require protection from intense sun. A large shade tree, like a jacaranda or poinciana tree, is good for protecting gardenias from direct heat.

Best regions for growing gardenias in Australia:

Coastal regions best suited to gardenias occur from Perth and Sydney northwards, but in these locations, need to be protected from salt-laden sea breezes.

For Victorian and South Australian gardeners, the gardenia cultivar ‘Grandiflora Star’ is the best choice. In the tropics, subtropics and inland regions, gardenias can have too much sunshine, and last longer in spots where they receive dappled afternoon shade.

They also need an acidic soil between pH 4.5 and 5.5. The Tahitian gardenia (G. taitensis) is the only species that copes with alkaline soils, but it can be hard to find and requires a warm climate.

How to make a neutral soil more acidic:

To make a neutral soil more acidic, you can watering on iron chelates once or twice each year in late spring, summer or early autumn. Alternatively, you can rake in one handful of powdered sulfur per square metre in late spring or a month before planting, and mulch regularly with pine or she-oak needles to gradually acidify the soil.

Gardenias need daytime temperatures above 10–15°C to start flowering, which is why many of the flower buds that form in warm autumn weather succumb to colder winter temperatures and drop off.

How to grow gardenias in containers:

Gardenias are ideal for containers or garden borders. These shallow-rooted plants love frost-free, humid climates and grow best in well-dug, freely draining, compost-enriched, acidic soil. They love plenty of well-rotted manure, compost or a half-and-half mixture of both before planting, which you can fork into the top 30–45cm of soil before you plant.

In subsequent years, mulch the plant with a 10cm layer of compost in spring to supplement the organic content of soil, as compost is great for encouraging earthworm activity. Alternatively, you can mulch with straw, lucerne, sugarcane or hay, but it’s best to keep it away from the base of the plants to avoid stem rot.

How to grow gardenias in pots:

The best way to enjoy gardenias in cool or inland regions is to grow them in pots. This allows you to move them to a sunny, sheltered position in winter, or a cooler spot with afternoon shade in summer.

Plastic or ceramic pots are preferable to terracotta or concrete as they don’t allow the potting mix to dry out as rapidly. Use a potting mix for acid-loving plants.

How to repot gardenias:

During the warmer months, gardenias grow steadily, and in southern Australia this may mean re-potting only every other year at the most.

Congested roots stunt growth, and damaging their roots during re-potting can cause flower buds to drop. Planting, transplanting and repotting are best completed in spring.

• ‘Florida’
• ‘Gold Magic’
• ‘Four Seasons’
• ‘Professor Pucci’

Top Gardenia cultivars

What are tree gardenias best suited for?

The tree gardenia (Rothmannia globosa), from South Africa, can often be found in heritage gardens. Tough and slow-growing, this plant makes an attractively shaped small tree, growing to about 6m high.

Its fragrant, cream to white red-speckled flowers bloom in one large show in spring, and are followed by masses of macadamia-like seed pods. A very old and lovely specimen can be seen at Camden Park House in Sydney’s south-west, home of wool pioneers John and Elizabeth Macarthur.

When do gardenias flower in Australia?

Gardenias flower in summer, but also spot-flowers in spring and autumn.

Why have my gardenia’s flower buds dropped off?

Overwatering, drought, inadequate sun, or high or low night temperatures can be the problem. To mediate this, choose an ideal location and provide consistent care, and this may mean repotting or moving its planter.

Flower buds dropping off may also be a result of sap-sucking pests such as thrips or aphids. Try spraying buds and flowers with a horticultural spray oil three times in spring or summer, three weeks apart, and this should deter the pests.

Why have my gardenia leaves turned black?

Sooty mould is a harmless fungus that coats leaves that grows on honeydew, a sticky, sweet substance excreted by scale and mealybug. To protect your leaves from this fungus, spray the entire plant with a horticultural spray oil. The mould will crumble away or use a soft cloth and soapy water to gently remove it.

Why didn’t my gardenia flower?

Gardenias flower on new growth. Prune or shape your gardenia plants, especially hedges, in late August at the latest.

Why do my gardenia flowers turn brown?

Flowers naturally darken from white to yellow as they mature, and drought and intense sun cause flowers to burn, brown and crisp. If it is the latter, protect gardenias from hot afternoon sun, especially in inland, tropical or subtropical climates.

The post How to stop gardenia leaves from turning yellow, and other commonly searched gardenia questions appeared first on Homes To Love.

Apart from the beauty that they can provide, ground covers also offer practical benefits. They can suppress weeds, prevent what would otherwise be bare soil from drying out, and even stop sloping garden beds from sliding. And when they are flowering, the aesthetic and emotional benefits are endless.

With numerous flowering options to choose from, whether your garden is rambling and untamed, or structured and manicured, there is sure to be a plant to suit. There are even plenty of drought-tolerant and shade-loving plants for flowering groundcovers. As particularly hardy plants, flowering ground covers are also generally quite easy to grow and require little to no maintenance.

You can’t go wrong with these seven flowering ground cover varieties for sun, shade and fast growth.

Best flowering ground cover plants

1. Lamb’s Ear

Producing velvety silver-grey leaves, Lamb’s Ears are not only a beautiful ground covering, but one of the hardiest and easiest to care for. The perennials grow into a tight, dense mat, and can also be used for border edging in your garden beds, and they welcome dainty white and yellow flowers.

It grows well in most areas including even those with drought-like conditions, and while it prefers full sun, it can thrive in partial shade, so long as the soil isn’t too moist. To help it spread along the ground, it’s best to divide and replant it at the end of each season.

2. Native Violet

Native violet is your go-to flowering groundcover plant for that shady, often damp area down the side of the house and is similar in appearance to a wild grass. It’s ideal to soften around a stepping-stone path, adding pretty mauve and white flowers for most of the year to the dense cover of round leaves.

It spreads easily, so don’t use where it will compete with other plants. In shade it can reach 10cm tall, but is flatter in sunnier and drier spots. It grows in most climates.

3. Star Jasmine

Star jasmine is the climber we love for its mass of perfumed white flowers that bloom from late spring to early summer. Not only is the white star flower aesthetically blessed, is also makes an equally hardy groundcover.

Use it in sun or shade to cover large areas under tall trees or across sloping banks. It forms a dense cover about 30cm high, but if you want a lower and tighter flowering ground cover, look for Asiatic star jasmine (Trachelospermum asiaticum), especially the cultivar ‘Flat Mat’. Shear it all over after flowering finishes.

4. Bellflower

Profuse, star-shaped flowers in lavender-blue from mid-spring to summer make this dense flowering ground cover as pretty as it is practical. The soft, heart-shaped leaves reach no more than 15cm high but can spread indefinitely. It sometimes self-seeds in the cracks of paths or steps, so is able to tolerate occasional dryness.

It’s also lovely spilling over rocks, or filling in between perennials and shrubs. It grows in cool and warm climates where it’s protected from hot sun.

5. Blue Bugle

This shade-loving beauty forms flat rosettes of shiny leaves from which tall spikes of blue flowers rise in spring and summer. The leaves are usually glossy deep green, but ‘Atropurpurea’ has purplish tones; ‘Burgundy Glow’ features mottled cream, pale green and crimson leaves; and ‘Catlin’s Giant’ has larger, red-tinted foliage.

Grow Ajuga in warm or cool climates (where it takes more sun) but not the tropics. It’s useful under deciduous trees or to bind soil. Once established, it forms a dense mat.

6. Creeping Boobialla

For hot, dry spots, this Australian native plant is a good choice because it’s tough and easy-care. The foliage can be green or bronze-purple, and there’s also a fine-leafed form.

In spring, it’s sprinkled with small, white or pale pink starry flowers. The stems form roots as they grow, so it’s excellent for binding steep banks, and looks lovely as fill between native shrubs or spilling over a wall. It grows in cool, warm and subtropical climates and needs a lot of sun.

7. Creeping Thyme

Believe it or not, this aromatic herb makes for an excellent and hardy groundcover. Thyme produces small, vibrant green leaves that have a fresh fragrance. Opt for the creeping variety and it can grow up to 5cm thick, and spread up to 50cm along the ground.

It’s a sun-loving option for groundcover that needs very little watering, and looks stunning when planted between pavers or stepping stones in your garden. Be aware that creeping thyme isn’t quite as flavourful as the variety commonly used in cooking, but can be used nonetheless. Just make sure you give it a good wash if its been stepped on!

What is the best low maintenance flowering ground cover in Australia?

Several varieties are easy to grow and maintain in Australian gardens, including Lamb’s Ear and Creeping Thyme. They are known for their easy care and resilience, meaning you can get back to whatever it is you were doing before you planted your ground cover.

What is the best flowering ground cover to choke out weeds?

Flowering ground cover plants offer practical benefits like acting to suppress weeds by physically removing space for weeds to grow. Hardy, bulky plants are a great option, and include native violet, blue bugle and creeping thyme.

The post 7 flowering ground cover plants for Australian gardens appeared first on Homes To Love.

Grabbing Mum a box of chocolates and a bunch of flowers will let her know she’s appreciated this Mother’s Day, but to really earn the title of ‘favourite child’ you may have to make a little extra effort. And we’re not talking about messing up her kitchen to cook breakfast in bed or disrupting her sleep-in to head out for brunch.

If your mum loves to potter around the garden doing all manner of things from weeding to pruning, watering and planting, then you’re in luck! We’ve made the extra effort for you by searching high and low for the best Mother’s Day presents that garden-loving mums will adore.

While we know she’ll be happy to receive any of these gifts, above all, Mother’s Day is a time to show your appreciation and give thanks for all the hard work she’s done over the years.

That means if your mum is due for a pamper session or to simply spend an afternoon with her feet up, another great no-cost gardening gift idea is to take a load off her shoulders by tackling some (or all!) of these autumn gardening jobs.

The best gardening gifts for mum

01

Plantopedia: The Definitive Guide to House Plants

$52.25, Booktopia

Indoor plants are an essential part of any home’s decor, and this beautifully curated book by Leaf Supply’s Lauren Camilleri and Sophia Kaplan is the essential guide to ensuring your plants thrive all year round.

Available at:

• $59.99 from Myer
• $66 from Freedom
• $79.95 from Temple & Webster

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02

Brixton Joanna straw hat

$47 (usually $79.95), The Iconic

If your mum is prone to spending hours out under the sun, make sure she’s protected from head to toe with the help of a lightweight, breathable, and incredibly stylish hat like this wide-brimmed woven straw number.

Available at:

• $40 from Surfstitch
• $108.84 from Revolve

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03

Sophie Conran garden fork

$55, Aura Home

Easy-to-use gardening tools that look great are an essential part of any avid gardener’s kit, so refresh mum’s toolbelt with this beautiful garden fork by English interior designer Sophie Conran. Complete the set at Aura Home with Sophie’s hard-wearing secateurs, a weeder, and trowel.

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04

Personalised gardening A5 cloth notebook

$39.95, Hard To Find

Bring the outdoors in with this beautiful customisable notebook that features an adorable illustrated garden-inspired cover that’s sure to help keep your mum organised.

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05

Hunter Original refined tall gumboots in Black Gloss

$205.50 (usually $293), Asos

Rain, hail or shine, any passionate gardener is bound to get their hands and feet deep in the soil. Help your mum garden in comfort with a hardy pair of Hunter’s rain boots that will keep her feet warm no matter the weather.

Available at:

• $168.50 from The Iconic
• $239 from David Jones

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06

Burgon & Ball seed package storage tin in Green

$78, Hard To Find

Help mum keep her smaller gardening supplies and seeds organised and protected with this stylish storage tin. Compact and easy to use, it is made with powder-coated steel, comes in Green, Blue and Stone, and features a genuine leather handle for easy portability.

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07

Crabtree & Evelyn Gardeners Hand Therapy

$21.61, Amazon

If your mum is frequently tending to her plants, chances are she’s regularly washing her hands throughout the day. Help keep her hands in tip-top shape with this luxurious hand balm that is especially designed to hydrate and replenish hard-working mitts.

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08

Esschert Design garden tool belt in Green

$44.76, Amazon

There’s nothing more frustrating than getting into a gardening groove and finding that you’ve misplaced your secateurs. Keep your gardening tools within easy reach courtesy of this stylish and hard-wearing gardening tool belt. With deep pockets, you’ll never lose a thing again.

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The post 8 Mother’s Day gift ideas for mums who love to garden appeared first on Homes To Love.

Outdoor potted plants create a focal point in larger gardens, but can also quite as easily elevate courtyards, balconies and patios that don’t have as much access to garden beds and soil. 

When it comes to picking a suitable variety, there is an abundance of plants that thrive this way, from edible potted citrus trees to fragrant frangipanis and, of course, more sculptural topiary shrubs.  

Shop extra large pots for outdoor plants

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Otto metal decorative pot, Pillow Talk

$99.95

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Temple & Webster Mona iron plant pot

$69.95 (usually $114)

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You can easily transform your outdoor space into a lush oasis by pairing stylish outdoor plant pots with the right species. 

Here, we take a look at the best outdoor potted plants; whether they’re sun- or shade-loving, chosen for their good looks, or for being robust and easy to grow.

The best outdoor potted plants in Australia

Peace lily (Spathiphyllum)

Best for: shady gardens

Peace lilies are a very popular indoor plant, but this glossy-leafed beauty also thrives outside in a warm, bright spot, out of direct sun. The white blooms are long-lasting and make for a spectacle in your garden. Outdoors, peace lilies can tolerate temperatures between 18°C to 27°C, but it’s best to move them indoors in more severe weather.

Tips for growing peace lily in pots:

• Use well-draining soil and a pot with drainage holes
• Place in bright, indirect light
• Water when the top inch of soil feels dry
• Fertilise monthly during the growing season

Fuchsia (Fuchsia spp.)

Best for: shady gardens

Fuchsias are traditionally shade-loving plants but the Sun Kisses variety also takes full sun. They flower profusely throughout the year and can tolerate temperatures from -3˚C to 40˚C. They thrive outdoors in pots, provided they have well-draining soil and indirect light. They can also be trained to grow as a tree, bush (prune regularly), in baskets, or even espaliered or as bonsai. 

Tips for growing fuchsia in pots:

• Use well-draining soil and a pot with drainage holes
• Place in bright, indirect light
• Keep soil constantly moist
• Feed with balanced fertiliser during the growing season

Port wine magnolia (Michelia figo)

Best for: shady gardens

Port wine magnolias (or Magnolia figo) may be slow-growing but they’re a very worthwhile large shrub. The dense, small leaves make an excellent screen, and the bubblegum perfume of its spring flowers is a bonus. When growing Port wine magnolias outdoors in pots, ensure you have a big enough pot and that it’s placed in partial shade or dappled sunlight.

Tips for growing Port wine magnolia in pots:

• Use well-draining soil and a pot with drainage holes
• Place in partial sunlight
• Keep soil moist but not waterlogged
• Fertilise during the growing season
• Prune to maintain the desired size and shape

Flamingo flower (Anthurium)

Best for: shady gardens

Anthuriums prefer bright light without direct sun and in a warm climate. Their flowers last for months and you can use them as a table centrepiece or for splashes of colour in your garden. Anthuriums can thrive potted outdoors in tropical or subtropical regions, but in cooler climates or areas with harsh winters, it’s best to keep them as an indoor potted plant.

Tips for growing Anthuriums in pots:

• Use well-draining soil and a pot with drainage holes
• Place in partial sunlight
• Keep soil moist and consider misting foliage regularly
• Fertilise during the growing season

Golden cane palm (Dypsis lutescens)

Best for: shady gardens

If you’re looking for a tall potted plant for your garden, Gold cane palms can grow to 10 metres and are a dense, clumping plant. It’s lush and undemanding, although drying winds and hot sun can burn leaf tips. Similar to Anthuriums, Gold cane thrives in tropical or subtropical climates.

Tips for growing Golden cane palm in pots:

• Use well-draining soil
• Choose a pot 2-3 times larger than the palm’s root ball
• Place in partial sunlight
• Keep soil moist and consider misting foliage regularly
• Fertilise during the growing season
• Repot every 2-3 years

Camellia (Camellia japonica)

Best for: shady gardens

Camellias, with their dark, lustrous foliage, are the perfect foil for large and beautiful winter flowers, in pink, red and white. When it comes to putting them in outdoor pots, make sure to select a smaller variety. Camellia japonica cultivars like ‘Nuccio’s Gem’ and ‘Debutante’ are popular choices for potting, as well as Sasanqua camellias varieties like ‘Setsugekka’ and ‘Yuletide’.

Tips for growing camellias in pots:

• Select a large pot with drainage holes
• Use potting mix formulated for acid-loving plants
• Place in partial shade to filtered light
• Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged
• Feed with a balanced, slow-release fertiliser
• Move potted plants to shelter during frost

Fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata)

Best for: shady gardens

Popular as a house plant in the 1960s for its handsome, large leaves and un-killable nature the fiddle leaf fig is enjoying a welcome comeback to garden designs everywhere. It’s tall and striking wherever it’s placed, and thrives in a pot indoors. It can also be grown in a pot outdoors but is more suitable for tropical and subtropical regions.

Tips for growing fiddle-leaf figs in pots:

• Ensure you live in warm, tropical conditions
• Select a large pot with drainage holes
• Place in a sheltered location with partial shade
• Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged
• Feed with a balanced, slow-release fertiliser
• Move potted plants to shelter during frost

Blueberry

Best for: sunny gardens

Delicious blueberries are easy to grow in large pots and have pretty profuse flowers. Choose evergreen varieties such as Blueberry Burst that look good year-round. Cultivars that work particularly well for container gardening include Sunshine Blue, Top Hat, Peach Sorbet, and Jelly Bean.

Tips for growing blueberries in pots:

• Select a large pot with at least 40-50 cm diameter
• Use a well-draining, acidic potting mix
• Place in full sun to partial shade
• Keep soil constantly moist but not waterlogged
• Feed with a slow-release, acid-forming fertilise
• Prune to encourage fruiting
• Ensure adequate pollination by attracting bees

Geranium Big Red (Pelargonium x hortorum Big Red)

Best for: sunny gardens

The star performer among the geranium species, the ‘Big Red’ has bold red flowers for most of the year, is terrifically disease resistant and thrives in pots.

Tips for growing geranium in pots:

• Use well-draining soil and a pot with drainage holes
• Ensure they get 6-8 hours of sunlight per day
• Keep soil constantly moist
• Feed with a balanced fertiliser during the growing season
• Remove spent flowers regularly to encourage new growth
• Pinch back stems to encourage branching

Chilean Jasmine (Mandevilla)

Best for: sunny gardens

You can grow this long-flowering beauty as a climber or nip the tendrils for a soft, bushy effect. There are pink, white and crimson varieties, all with glossy leaves, and they thrive when they are grown outdoors in pots.

Tips for growing Chilean jasmine in pots:

• Pick an extra-large pot to accommodate growth
• Use well-draining potting mix
• Ensure at least 6-8 hours of sunlight per day
• Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged
• Feed with a balanced fertiliser during the growing season
• Provide a trellis or support structure to climb
• Prune regularly to control size and shape

Imperial Bromeliad (Alcantarea imperialis)

Best for: sunny gardens

For a bit of wow factor, the bromeliad plant is unequalled, especially the Rubra and Silver Plum varieties. They can reach two metres across, so allow room with an extra-large pot.

Tips for growing bromeliad in pots:

• Select a pot that is wide and shallow
• Use well-draining potting mix or a mixture of orchid bark, perlite, and peat moss
• Position in bright, indirect light
• Don’t overwater – only when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch
• Consider misting the foliage occasionally

Dwarf sacred bamboo (Nandina Gulf Stream, Flirt and Obsession)

Best for: sunny gardens

Great texture and colour combine with toughness in the leafy Dwarf sacred bamboo plant. The colour intensifies in cool weather. Dwarf Sacred Bamboo is a compact variety of Nandina that is well-suited to growing in pots.

Tips for growing Dwarf sacred bamboo in pots:

• Select a pot that is wide and shallow
• Use a well-draining potting mix designed for outdoor ornamental plants
• Ensure at least 4-6 hours of sunlight per day
• Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged
• Feed with a balanced fertiliser during the growing season

Dwarf kangaroo paw (Anigozanthos Bush Gems series Bush Fantasy)

Best for: sunny gardens

Just one of many colours in this series, dwarf kangaroo paw is grown and bred for superior flowering and performance and because of their more compact nature, are suitable for growing in pots.

Tips for growing Dwarf kangaroo paw in pots:

• Select a large, deep pot with good drainage holes
• Use a well-draining potting mix designed for native Australian plants
• Ensure at least 6-8 hours of sunlight per day
• Don’t overwater – only when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch
• Use a slow-release, low-phosphorus fertiliser during growing months
• Remove spent flower stems and dead or yellowing leaves regularly

Bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae)

Best for: sunny gardens

Silvery leaves and exotic flowers make the Bird of Paradise a popular and striking ornamental accent plant, yet it’s also tough as nails and can easily be grown outside in pots. Bird of paradise plants are also great for hot, exposed and windy spots.

Tips for growing Bird of Paradise in pots:

• Select a large, deep and heavy pot with good drainage holes
• Use a well-draining potting mix designed for tropical plants or palms
• Ensure at least 6-8 hours of sunlight per day
• Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged
• Use a balanced, slow-release fertiliser during growing months
• Remove spent flower stems and dead or yellowing leaves regularly

Jade plant (Crassula ovate)

Best for: sunny gardens

A compact succulent with great form and pretty heads of pinky-white flowers, the Jade plant practically thrives on neglect and is easy to grow in pots outside.

Tips for growing Jape plants in pots:

• Select a pot that is wide and shallow
• Use a well-draining potting mix designed for succulents or cacti
• Ensure at least 4-6 hours of sunlight per day
• Allow soil to dry out completely between waterings
• Use a balanced fertiliser during growing months

The post The best outdoor potted plants to add a feature to your garden  appeared first on Homes To Love.

His signature idylls, rich in English, French and Italianate allusions, often feature distinctive traits like neat buxus hedges, straight stone paths, statues, water features and statement focal points. 

A Bangay-designed space is at once exuberant and beautifully simple. 

For those keen to emulate his iconic designs, there’s plenty to be gleaned from his dense portfolio of projects. Whether that’s incorporating geometric elements to define nature, adding squares and circles to outdoor areas, or embracing symmetry, a consistent component of a Paul Bangay-designed garden is achieving balance.

In 2023, Paul released an illustrated memoir that documented his journey to becoming one of the country’s most sought-after landscape designers.

Starting with pictures of his childhood gardens and some of his earliest sketches to the story behind his more recent designs, it offers an insight into the inner workings of a maestro.

You can buy Paul Bangay: A Life In Garden Design here.

Read more

Where does Paul Bangay live?

At the end of 2022, Paul listed his 50-acre estate known as Stonefields for sale. And while the prominent landscape designer regularly opened up his gardens to the public for guided tours, the listing gave a rare glimpse inside the five-bedroom house he had called home for the past 15 years.

And while shortly after it was reported that fellow Australian landscape architect and designer Jamie Durie had snapped up the prestigious property, it later came out that the sale never eventuated, and that Paul had kept the keys to Stonefields. For now, at least.

You can see inside Paul Bangay’s house here.

Take a stroll through 13 gardens designed by Paul Bagay

Paul previously described the gardens at his own personal Stonefields estate in Victoria as his “life’s greatest work”. From a bunch of bare paddocks, he transformed the property with manicured paths, topiary, a hilltop swimming pool and labyrinth.

This tennis court is part of an original design by Harold Desbrowe-Annear, in a grand mansion in Melbourne’s inner east. The garden was gently reinvigorated by Paul Bangay over eight years.

Paul Bangay was brought in to help create interior designer Thomas Hamel’s rooftop garden in Sydney’s Glebe, in collaboration with Secret Gardens. The brief was to promote a sense of indoor-outdoor connection “centred on a lush garden with the sound of running water.”

Paul Bangay’s brief for the gardens at Chyka Keebaugh’s leafy Mornington Peninsula weekender was to create a landscape “with plenty of areas to socialise; that might be a long, lazy lunch, drinks at the bar, or a barbecue around the pool.”

The garden of this striking Hunter Valley retreat fell into the capable hands of Paul Bangay, whose brief was to create something more European, with cypress trees, a maple and fruit trees.

A driveway sweeps through box round hedges and gardens designed by Victoria-based landscaper Paul Bangay. The gardens are informed by the coastal home’s Hamptons-inspired interior and its extraordinary clifftop views at Portsea, Victoria.

Sculptural hedges and graved paths designed by Paul Bangay created a perfectly manicured courtyard garden in this restored Italianate mansion in Toorak.

Jasmine spills over the pool’s limestone wall. For year-round good looks, landscaper Paul Bangay designed the garden in this grand Toorak home modelled after classical French architecture in a restrained green palette.

The Paul Bangay-designed gardens were one of the features that drew the new owners to this worn-in sandstone cottage near Lake Macquarie in NSW. “It was charming, with beautiful gardens,” they say. “Nestled into the foothills of the Watagans National Park, the valleys here are always green and lush, and wildlife is plentiful too.”

This converted warehouse with a secret lush oasis is the work of the garden designer Paul Bangay, who designed the space as his city studio and office.

Beyond the hydrangeas, a row of Chilean myrtle (Luma apiculata) has been pollarded against a low wall behind the marri tree in The Secret Garden Margaret River, designed by gardener Pat Poynter and Paul Bangay.

A Chinese elm bordered by Buxus microphylla shrubs takes centrestage in the amphitheatre of this expansive contemporary garden in Victoria by Paul Bangay.

The owners of this grand home in Sydney enlisted the ‘dream team’ when they brought in interior designer Thomas Hamel, Michael Suttor as consulting architect and landscaper Paul Bangay. As for the brief: they wanted the grandeur and grace of the French Riviera on Sydney terrain.

The post 13 enchanting landscapes created by leading designer Paul Bangay appeared first on Homes To Love.

Hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla cvs) are one of the most popular flowers to grow, and for good reason. Not only good-looking, their wide array of colours make them the perfect addition to any home’s exterior.

From crisp whites to rich violets and striking blues, hydrangeas are beloved for their easy-to-grow nature as well as the pop of colour they provide to any garden setting.

“Late summer is one of the best times to plant hydrangeas as you’ll be able to make the most of their colours while they are still in bloom,” says gardening expert Narelle Peart from Scotts Osmocote. “Hydrangeas are sometimes a little tricky to grow but there are plenty of tips and tricks which, if followed correctly, will see your new hydrangeas thrive.”

Here, Narelle shares her top tips hydrangea care.

How to grow hydrangeas from cuttings

The best time to take a hydrangea cutting in Australia is once the plant has finished blooming. This often occurs around late summer. To give your cutting the best chance of survival, wait until early morning or late evening when the weather is cooler. Make sure you select a stem that is healthy and disease- and pest-free.

To take a cutting, first find a six-inch stem that has several leaves attached. Using a pair of sharp pruning shears, make a clean cut just below a leaf node (the point where a leaf attaches to a stem). Then, remove any flowers or buds, as well as any leaves on the lower two-thirds of the stem.

Dip the bottom of the stem in a rooting hormone, and place in a small pot with moist, well-draining soil. Cover the cutting with a plastic bag to create a humid environment and place in bright but indirect light. After a few weeks, gently tug on the stem to see whether it has rooted. Once it has, remove the plastic and transplant the stem into a larger pot or in your garden.

Growing hydrangeas in pots

While hydrangeas prefer to live in a garden bed, they can also be grown in pots and containers quite happily. If you choose to grow your hydrangeas in pots, it’s important to ensure they receive the right care to help get the most out of your plant.

“For best results, position them in an area with some afternoon shade; make sure they are planted in a specialised potting mix, such as Osmocote Premium Plus Potting Mix which has the Australian Standard Red Tick for Premium Potting Mix meaning it has enough nutrients to feed your plants for the months to come,” Narelle recommends.

The best soil for hydrangeas

Like all plants, it’s important to start from the ground up. Investing in the right soil for your garden will ensure optimal growing conditions for your hydrangeas all-year round.

“Before you plant hydrangeas in your garden, make sure you give your soil a little bit of love to ensure the right nutrients are available for the plants to thrive,” says Narelle.

“Whether you decide to create a new garden bed for your hydrangeas or just want to improve the current soil conditions, it is important to add a garden soil that encourages stronger root development, keeping your plant healthy in its new environment,” she explains.

Changing the colour of hydrangeas

Hydrangeas come in a wide range of varietals, so selecting specific colours might seem like a challenging task. Luckily, it’s actually possible to change the colour of your hydrangea flowers yourself with a little clever gardening know-how. “While white hydrangeas are usually quite stable in their colouring, the pink and blue varieties can be deepened simply by changing the pH of your soil,” explains Narelle.

“If a deeper pink is what you’re looking for, add garden lime to the soil to make it more alkaline so that the pH level is above 7,” she adds. “For a darker blue, you’ll want to add compost or coffee grounds to increase the acidity of the soil.”

When should you prune hydrangeas?

Pruning hydrangeas is vital. Knowing when is and isn’t the right time to prune can make a world of difference for your plant’s health.

“In winter, prune hydrangeas to a pair of plump buds low down on stems but remember not to cut back stems that have not yet flowered,” says Narelle. “As an added bonus, these prunings can be propagated.”

How do you keep hydrangeas blooming?

Feeding your hydrangeas the right nutrients will ensure your plants are in perfect health for the seasons ahead.

“Like any plant, it is important to feed your hydrangeas with a specialised fertiliser like Osmocote’s All Purpose Controlled Release Fertiliser, that will give them the nutrients they need for healthy and sustained growth,” says Narelle.

In Australia, it’s best to fertilise your hydrangeas in March and April, and then again in August, September and October.

The post How to grow and care for hydrangeas in Australia appeared first on Homes To Love.

The best silver plants for Australian gardens

Blue chalk sticks

Senecio mandraliscae

With an attractive silvery-blue tone and smooth-to-touch texture, this low-maintenance succulent spreads easily to form a dense ground cover.

Sun/Shade: Full, direct sun
Care: Rarely need watering or fertiliser
Size: Will grow to a height of 30 – 60 cm

Kalanchoe ‘silver spoons’

Kalanchoe bracteata

A small, compact, drought-tolerant succulent with oval-shaped leaves that resemble spoons, Kalanchoe is a medium-height plant that will add dimension above groundcover.

Sun/Shade: Full, direct sun
Care: Water weekly during hotter months
Size: Will grow to a height of 1 metre

Licorice plant

Helichrysum petiolare

A fast-growing and lush ground cover that suits most light conditions and soil types. Expect small, cream flowers in spring and summer. It also works well cascading from within a hanging basket.

Sun/Shade: Full, direct sun
Care: Water every 1.5 weeks or so during hotter months
Size: Will grow to a height of 1.5 metres

Silver falls

Dichondra argentea

Silver falls is a creeping plant with long, silver trailing stems. Use as a ground cover or hang in pots for instant impact.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to partial shade
Care: Water regularly during hotter months, allow to dry out between
Size: Can reach lengths of up to 1.5 metres

Curry plant

Helichrysum italicum

An aromatic plant with silver-grey foliage and tiny button yellow flowers, use it as a low hedge, border or in containers. This hardy plant is happy in full sun to light shade and will tolerate winter frosts.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to partial shade
Care: Water regularly until established (approx 12 weeks), then sparingly
Size: Will grow to a height of 30 – 60 cm

Silver spears

Astelia chathamica

An ornamental perennial with silver, flax-like foliage, it will fit right into a coastal or Mediterranean-style garden. It grows well in a sheltered spot with well-drained, moist soil. Pair with salvias and lavender.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to partial shade
Care: Water sparingly, prune as needed
Size: Will grow to a height of 1.5 metres

Century plant

Agave Americana

With its majestic, sculptural shapes, this desert plant makes a dramatic focal point in a garden bed or decorative pot. Keep away from footpaths and walkways, as the spines are sharp. They can also be hazardous to pets.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to partial shade
Care: Water sparingly, prune as needed
Size: Will grow to a height of 90 – 180 cm

Panda plant

Kalanchoe tomentosa

Easy to grow and super-resilient, its soft, silvery leaves have been likened to animal ears, hence the common name, Panda plant.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to partial shade
Care: Water between 1 and 3 days a week as needed, especially when the soil is dry
Size: Will grow to a height of 30 – 90 cm

French lavender

Lavandula dentata

Also known as ‘Fringed Lavender’ this hardy, ornamental shrub flowers non-stop from early summer to late autumn in the right conditions. What it lacks in scent it makes up for in looks, plus it will bring butterflies and bees to your garden.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to partial shade
Care: Water during dry periods, take care not to over-water
Size: Will grow to a height of 60- 90 cm

Dusty miller

Jacobaea maritima

With its soft, finely textured foliage, this plant looks good in both containers and garden beds, and will help tone down brighter blooms.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to partial afternoon shade
Care: Water occasionally
Size: Will grow to a height of 20 – 40 cm

Shrubby germander

Teucrium fruticans

An evergreen shrub from the mint family, which has pretty mauve-blue flowers on arching grey stems. It has a decidedly Mediterranean feel. Water well until established then leave to its own devices.

Sun/Shade: Prefers full sun but can grow in partial shade
Care: Water regularly to establish but ensure good drainage
Size: Will grow to a height of 120 – 240 cm

Lamb’s ear

Stachys byzantina

One of the most popular silver-leaved perennials, it works well as a low border or ornamental groundcover plant. Kids will love stroking its furry foliage.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to partial shade
Care: Require about 2.5 cm of water per week
Size: Will grow to a height of 15 – 60 cm

Felt plant

Kalanchoe beharensis

A slightly eccentric-looking addition with velvet leaves and bold foliage. This plant can grow to a height of 90cm,and is ideal in pots or as part of a succulent garden.

Sun/Shade: Can tolerate full morning or afternoon sun, but requires shade at the hottest time of day
Care: Water every 2 – 3 weeks and sparingly, if at all, in winter
Size: Will grow to a height of 60 – 90 cm

Silver dollar plant

Crassula arborescens

With blue-silver, round foliage, this variety of jade is perfect for containers and can be pruned to shape. As per Chinese legend, place one by your front door to encourage money to flow into the household.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to partial shade depending on the climate
Care: Water regularly, especially during summer
Size: Will grow to a height of 15 – 30 cm

Blue fescue

Festuca glauca

This ornamental grass has steel-blue foliage all year round. The dense, blade-like leaves form a nice, neat shape, making it an ideal candidate for borders, edging and rock or cottage gardens.

Sun/Shade: Partial shade
Care: Weekly during summer
Size: Will grow to approximately 15 – 30 x 15 – 45 cm

Silverbush

Convolvulus cneorum

Silverbush known for its attractive silvery-green foliage and wide, open, white flowers that cover it from spring to summer. Easy to grow and very hardy, it prefers a full sun/partly shaded position and requires very little water.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to partial shade
Care: Allow to dry out between watering
Size: Will grow to approximately 60 x 60 cm

Cushion bush

Leucophyta brownii

Perfect for coastal settings, this silvery-grey shrub will flourish in a sunny spot and resists wind and salt spray like a champion. It has a low-growing, bun-shaped habit, making it ideal for hedges, topiary or as a feature.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to partial shade
Care: Water once a week
Size: Will grow to approximately 75 x 90 cm

Bismarck palm

Bismarckia nobilis

Hailing all the way from Madagascar, the Bismarck is a striking palm that will make a great feature in any garden that has enough space. Its large, blueish fronds grow to 3 metres wide and it can reach a height of 20 metres.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to partial shade
Care: Every day for the first month, then sparingly once established
Size: Will grow to a height of up to 20 metres

Westringia

Westringia fruticosa

Also referred to as coastal rosemary, westringia is a dense, fast-growing shrub native to Australia. Its foliage and blooms range from white to mauve, blue and purple, making it ideal for adding both silver and tiny pops of colour to your garden.

Sun/Shade: Full sun
Care: Place in well-draining soil and water frequently after initial planting. Responds well to pruning.
Size: Will grow to a height of up to 2 metres high and 4 metres wide

The post 19 of the best silver plants for Australian gardens appeared first on Homes To Love.

Creating an inviting garden involves playing around with different types of plants that range in height, shape and colour. While vibrant green leaves are a tried and true classic, punctuating your garden with subtle silver plants, bright flowers, hardy perennials and, of course, purple plants adds the texture and tone needed for a beautifully landscaped outdoor space.

Here are our top purple plant picks that will thrive in Australian gardens.

18 purple plants for Australian gardens

Black rose

Aeonium arboreum ‘Schwarzkopf’

A flower-imitating succulent. Drought-tolerant, easy to propagate and flowers with yellow, pyramid-shaped flowerheads from late winter through to spring. It works as a single specimen in a pot, where it will thrive; just ensure free-draining soil and don’t overwater or it will rot. If you mass-plant in a gang, it starts to resemble a rose bush.

Sun/Shade: Full sun or partial shade
When to plant: Winter to early spring
How fast it grows: Slow-growing

Common sage

Salvia officinalis ‘Purpurascens’

Long-lasting herb that tastes great. Regularly picking the new leaves keeps it a tidy bun shape. A lilac-purple dusts the immature foliage on this cultivar. Contrasts well with silver/blue plants such as echium.

Sun/Shade: Full sun
When to plant: Spring or early summer
How fast it grows: 3 months, if grown from a cutting

Smoke bush

Cotinus coggygria ‘Royal Purple’ or ‘Grace’

The pinkish flower spray contrasts beautifully against the deep purple of this small tree’s foliage. Perfect for modern backyards, in autumn it puts on an extra show when the deciduous leaves turn from scarlet to pink and orange. Drought-tolerant and frost-hardy.

Sun/Shade: Full sun or partial shade
When to plant: Best planted in spring, but can be planted in autumn
How fast it grows: Approximately 30 – 60cm per year

Coleus

Solenostemon scutellariodes ‘Black Prince’

A colourful foliage plant that doesn’t demand much. The green stems contrast with its red-to-purple, scallop-edged leaves. As the blooms are fairly insignificant, pinch them out as they form to keep the plant at its bushy best.

Sun/Shade: Full sun or partial shade
When to plant: Early spring
How fast it grows: Fast-growing

Bugleweed

Ajuga reptans ‘Atropurpurea’

A low-growing groundcover with pretty blue, bee-attracting flowers in spring and summer. It looks great lining a pathway, planted en masse. Better in full sun but okay in partial shade; allow for air circulation around the plants to avoid powdery mildew.

Sun/Shade: Full sun or partial shade
When to plant: Early spring
How fast it grows: Fast-growing

Purple heart

Tradescantia pallida ‘Purpurea’

There’s a blueberry-like grey ‘bloom’ that covers this plant’s purple foliage, making it extra mesmerising. Forms a trailing ground cover that will grow in shade and sunny areas in beds, pots or shallow soil around rocks. Has a weed warning so you’ll need to control it.

Sun/Shade: Full sun
When to plant: Spring or summer
How fast it grows: Fast-growing

False shamrock

Oxalis triangularis

This is one for collectors. The purple, clover-like foliage opens with the light and looks like resting butterflies at night, closing in half when it’s dark. Nodding pink flowers sit above the foliage. Powdery mildew can be an issue. It’s a bulb, so goes through annual dormancy; have somewhere out of sight to rest the pot until the plant’s new leaves start to grow.

Sun/Shade: Full sun or partial shade
When to plant: Spring
How fast it grows: Shamrocks will appear after about six weeks

Dwarf purple fountain grass

Pennisetum macrostachyum ‘Rubrum Compacta’

Has purple leaves and plumes of feather-like flowers that appear in summer and autumn. Great to watch wind blowing through when planted in groups. To rejuvenate for spring, mow or cut close to the ground at the end of winter.

Sun/Shade: Full sun or partial shade
When to plant: Anytime
How fast it grows: Slow to moderate growth rate

Honeywort/blue shrimp plant

Cerinthe major ‘Purpurascens’

Unmissable in the garden, this plant will self-sow when growing in a sunny position in well-drained soil. Come winter, its long-lasting purple flowers are surrounded by purple leaves up the stem, which eventually transform into a silvery green.

Sun/Shade: Full sun or partial shade
When to plant: Early spring
How fast it grows: Fast-growing

Crepe myrtle

Lagerstroemia ‘Diamonds in the Dark’

Grown in full sun, this deciduous crepe myrtle retains the purple tones of the juvenile foliage into maturity. It produces lots of white and pink (imagine the beautiful clash!) to red flowers from early spring until autumn. Use it as an accent plant in the garden (in pots) or feature as a hedge. Highly prized for its ornamental qualities.

Sun/Shade: Full sun
When to plant: Mid-autumn to early spring
How fast it grows: 30 – 60cm per year

Persian shield

Strobilanthes dyerianus

Native to Myanmar, this exotic beauty prefers its sunlight dappled. The immature bright purple foliage fades to pink with age. Tip prune to encourage a bushier plant, stimulating growth points to enjoy more of the dazzling young leaves.

Sun/Shade: Partial shade
When to plant: Early spring
How fast it grows: Fast-growing

Black mondo grass

Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’

Taking purple foliage to its darkest edge, this low, tufty, grass-like plant looks best planted in groups at the front of a bed. Lilac to pink flowers adorn it in summer. Its colour and textured leaf make it a fantastic contrast plant.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to partial shade (the more sun, the darker the colour)
When to plant: Early spring
How fast it grows: Fast-growing once established

Freckle face/polka dot plant

Hypoestes phyllostachya

Brightening up dark, shady corners of the garden, this is great in a vertical garden, hanging basket or pot indoors. Small purple flowers bloom in summer. It has weed status in Queensland and NSW, so keep it under control.

Sun/Shade: Partial shade/indirect sun
When to plant: Late spring/early summer
How fast it grows: Fast-growing

Purple basil

Ocimum basilicum ‘Osmin’

A relative of sweet basil, this annual herb grows quickly and easily from seed, delivering a striking colour in the garden. Bees love the flowers, which are long-lasting on the plant. You can also use them as an edible garnish for your meals.

Sun/Shade: Full sun
When to plant: Spring to early autumn
How fast it grows: Reaches full maturity in less than two months

Silver inch plant/spiderword

Tradescantia zebrina

The striped leaves of this groundcover shimmer with a silvery glow, depending on the angle, and the purple underside flashes as it clambers over itself. A great plant for shade and dappled light, it’s easy to care for in hanging baskets or at the base of pots with its foliage trailing over the edge.

Sun/Shade: Bright but partially shaded location
When to plant: Year-round
How fast it grows: Fast-growing

Pink fringe flower

Loropetalum chinense rubrum

This pretty shrub grows to 2m, with purple-red foliage and pink flowers that resemble fireworks from spring through to summer. Keep it clipped to a desired height as a feature plant or hedge. The growth pattern is horizontal, so it can bring an entirely new texture to the garden.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to partial shade
When to plant: Spring
How fast it grows: Fast-growing

Little Ruby

Alternanthera dentata ‘Little Ruby’

A third of the height of common Alternanthera. Has bold burgundy foliage that is spreading and ground-hugging to 40cm. Once established, it thickens up like a purple carpet. Small pale-yellow pompom flowerheads appear in late winter to early spring.

Sun/Shade: Full sun to partial shade
When to plant: Spring to autumn
How fast it grows: Established by approximately 12 weeks

Bromeliad

Alcantarea imperialis ‘Rubra’

Much loved for its large rosette of purple-toned leaves, which get darker in cooler temperatures and also with more sun exposure. A tough plant that looks good in pots or garden beds.

Sun/Shade: Partial to full shade
When to plant: Spring to early autumn
How fast it grows: Slow-growing

The post 18 purple plants that thrive in Australian gardens appeared first on Homes To Love.

These versatile and often fast-growing plants, are resilient and adaptable, thriving in diverse environments ranging from garden beds to compact pots. Some varieties can even flourish without the need for trellises or support wires.

Despite their rapid growth, it’s crucial to select climbing plants carefully, considering their maintenance requirements and potential for causing damage. For example, while bougainvillea boasts striking beauty, its stems have sharp thorns. Similarly, passion fruit vines, though known for their beautiful flowers, can overrun gardens if left unchecked.

The top 8 fast-growing plants in Australia

1. Chinese Star Jasmine

Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is a heavily fragrant climbing plant that bears delicate white flowers. Jasmine plants can be weedy; keep them under control with ruthless pruning. As the flowers fade, trim over the plant to remove the spent flowers.

Best for: Covering walls and pergolas, or as a flowering groundcover
Sun/Shade: Full sun
When to plant: Spring
How fast it grows: 30 – 90cm per year

2. Bougainvillea

Bougainvillea is a hardy, sun-loving, fast-growing scrambling climber that will provide a pretty pop of colour against a back fence or garden shed. Bougainvilleas come in a range of colours — orange, pink, purple, red, yellow, and white — and sizes, from dwarf to rampant, so make sure to check at the nursery.

Best for: Along fences or in pots
Sun/Shade: Full sun
When to plant: Spring
How fast it grows: Up to 2m per year

3. Boston ivy

Boston ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata), also called Japanese Ivy, is a voluptuous, deciduous climber that will grow freely to camouflage a shed, garage or tank. It doesn’t require a trellis and can cover bare courtyard fences or garden walls turning your backyard into a gorgeous green oasis. Turning a bright reddish-purple colour in autumn, it’s technically part of the grape family so tends not to be as invasive as other ivy varieties.

Best for: Covering fences and walls
Sun/Shade: Full sun/ part shade
When to plant: Late spring / early summer
How fast it grows: 1 – 3m per year

4. Passionfruit vines

Passionfruit vines are an ideal climber that also serves a double purpose as an edible plant in your garden. There are many varieties to choose from, including Yellow Giant, Panama Gold, Panama Red and Nellie Kelly. Passionfruit vines do best in warm areas and produce glossy green leaves and the most incredible shaggy-looking purple and white flowers.

(For alternative edible climbers, you could go retro with a choko vine. Seasonal vegies that work well to cover a wall include climbing spinach, peas and snow peas, beans and cucumbers.)

Best for: Growing on trellises, pergolas and in pots, and for producing edible fruit
Sun/Shade: Full sun
When to plant: Spring
How fast it grows: 3 – 4m per year

5. Wisteria

Wisteria sinenses and Wisteria floribunda are the most commonly grown varieties in Australia. Wisteria is a classic climber that produces thick trunks adorned with pretty perfumed purple flowers that hang down when draped across a patio roof or passageway. Being deciduous, wisteria provides summer shade and winter sun.

Best for: Growing over pergolas or along verandahs
Sun/Shade: Full sun
When to plant: Spring
How fast it grows: Up to 3m per year

6. Mandevillas

Mandevillas produce a series of pink and red flowers, thrive in large pots, and bear masses of trumpet blooms most of the year. This fast-growing climber is commonly found in tropical and sub-tropical style gardens but can be grown all around Australia, except in particularly cold climates.

Best for: Growing on trellis or frames
Sun/Shade: Full sun / part sun
When to plant: Spring
How fast it grows: Up to 2.5m per year

7. Hardenbergia

Hardenbergia (Hardenbergia spp.), also known as Purple Coral Pea, is a heavily flowering Australian native climber that will bring a burst of colour, along with birds, bees and other insects to your garden, year-round. It will quickly (even faster than Jasmine) climb over fences, and sheds, or can be trained to trail along a trellis. It’s a very low-maintenance climbing plant, with the most common varietal being the Hardenbergia violacea ‘Happy Wanderer’.

Best for: Growing on trellis, fence or walls
Sun/Shade: Full sun / part sun
When to plant: Late winter
How fast it grows: Up to 2.5m per year

8. Pandorea

Pandorea (Pandorea jasminoides), also known as the wonga wonga vine or bower of beauty vine, is an Australian native climbing plant that produces an abundance of pretty trumpet-shaped flowers from spring through to autumn. There are a range of different varietals that produce slightly different shades of flowers, but it’s rapid growth makes it a particularly popular climbing plant in Australian gardens.

Best for: Climbing along trellis or fences
Sun/Shade: Full sun / part sun
When to plant: Spring
How fast it grows: Grow up to 5m

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What are the best shade-loving climbing plants?

Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is the best choice for shady fences. Other shade-loving creepers are climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris), creeping fig and ivy. When planting a climber, it’s important to consider how much sun or shade they will receive. Sun-loving climbers in shady spots will bolt to the top in search of the sun and can leave your fence looking bare.

What are the best sun-loving climbing plants?

If you’re looking to cover a fence that gets full sun for most of the day, you’ll need a climber that can withstand the harsh rays and heat. Some popular sun-loving climbing plants include bougainvillea, passionfruit flower, common jasmine, Dipladenia (Mandevilla Boliviensis), and orange trumpet creeper (Pyrostegia venusta).

What climbing plant grows the fastest?

Crimson glory vines (Vitis coignetiae) are an excellent option for times when you need an extremely fast-growing creeper or climber to hide a wall or other eyesore in the garden. Other fast-growing alternatives include Bower of beauty vine (Pandorea jasminoides) which has trumpet-shaped blooms, commonly available in pink flowers with a crimson throat.

What is the best-scented climbing plant?

For perfumed climbing plants, consider lemon-scented jasmine (Jasminum azoricum) or climbing bauhinia (Bauhinia corymbosa). Both are perfect for warm areas, but beware, they are not frost-tolerant. To clothe an outdoor pavilion or pagoda, try chocolate-scented Akebia quinata, fragrant white bridal wreath (Stephanotis) or yellow Carolina jasmine (Gelsemium sempervirens).

The post 8 fast-growing climbing plants anyone can grow, and quickly appeared first on Homes To Love.

To encourage most indoor plants to grow and flourish, you need to ensure they receive bright light for most of the day but are out of direct sunlight and cold draughts. It’s also best to water them when the potting mix begins to dry out and let the water completely drain. As they’re indoors, they can also get pretty dusty, so ensure you keep the leaves of your indoor plants free of dust. You can easily do this with a microfibre glove or neem plant spray.

Whether you display your indoor plants in your bathroom or showcase them as a large statement throughout your home, your indoor vine plants will love you if you let them rest outside from time to time, in a bright but sheltered spot. This allows them time to regenerate, get some fresh air, and keep them happy.

This is also the best time to fertilise your indoor trailing plants to encourage new growth or repot them with fresh potting mix.

If you’re looking to start, or maybe just add to, your indoor plant collection, here are five cascading indoor plants that are perfect for hanging in your home.

1. Devil’s ivy (Epipremnum aureum)

Devil’s ivy is one of the easiest indoor hanging plants to grow and one that we think drapes beautifully. Also known as pothos, it has small but tough heart-shaped green leaves that are patterned with yellow.

Devil’s ivy plants have trailing stems and are easy to grow from cuttings to increase your collection throughout your home. They also effectively remove toxins from the air, meaning they’re not only good to look at, but are good for you.

Pet owners, be warned though, Devil’s ivy is toxic to pets, so make sure it doesn’t drape all the way down to somewhere they can reach.

2. Chain of hearts (Ceropegia woodii)

Chain of hearts, also called Ceropegia woodii, grows long, elegant chains of tiny mottled grey-green heart-shaped leaves. It’s the perfect plant for not only draping over your bookshelf but also training to grow around the room or drip down elegantly from a hanging basket.

The perfect plant for those who aren’t great with green things, it’s super durable and needs little care other than occasional watering. When looked after well enough, they can grow up to a few metres long, making for quite the spectacle. With dainty leaves, they’re the perfect way to bring a bit of colour into more minimalist interiors.

3. Philodendron (Philodendron scandens)

While there are numerous variants of philodendrons, the heartleaf or sweetheart plant (Philodendron scandens), is best for draping. They have beautiful heart-shaped, glossy green leaves, and while they’re often sold growing on moss support, they’ll grow cascading down just as happily as climbing up.

Similarly, there is the Fiddleleaf Philodendron (Philodendron Bipennifolium) with horse-head-shaped leaves, which is quite similar in appearance to Monstera deliciosa, a large-leafed climbing or trailing plant that can also easily be grown indoors in pots.

4. Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum)

As the strappy-leafed spider plant grows it produces plantlets that hang down from the mother plant much like spiders dangling from a web. Enjoy the cascade of growth or detach a few of the small satellite plants to grow more plants. The variegated spider plant has white leaves striped with green and is very attractive and easy to grow.

This plant is actually a perennial herb and is simple to care for, thriving in even the harshest of conditions. A Clean Air study conducted by NASA even discovered that the spider plant can reduce indoor pollution by removing formaldehyde and xylene from the air.

5. String of pearls (Senecio rowleyanus)

The aptly named string of pearls plant is an unusual-looking succulent plant that will add a lot of visual interest to your home. It is fast-growing and easy to propagate and thrives in brightly lit rooms.

If you notice the beads of the plant starting to shrivel this is likely due to watering issues – string of pearls don’t require much water, but too much or too little can cause the beads to shrivel, with the latter being the most common cause. So keep in mind to only water this indoor trailing plant once every two weeks.

Other great indoor vine plants

• English Ivy (Hedera helix)
• Betel Leaf plant (Piper betle)
• Jasmine (Jasminum)
• Hoya (Hoya spp)

The best draping plant accessories to shop

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Dome hanging planter in Salt

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This curved hanging pot will add a touch of modern minimalism to your home. Its neutral colour will let your lush, green plants shine and create a sculptural moment in any room. Proudly made in Australia from resin and leather, it boasts both functionality and form.

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The post The best trailing indoor plants to drape around your home appeared first on Homes To Love.

There are plenty of flowering plants that can withstand cooler temperatures, in all colours from vibrant fuscia to classic whites. Even though gardeners don’t often associate them with it, even some Australian native plants can flourish in the cooler climate.

Here is a list of our favourite winter flowering plants appropriate for Australian gardens. Planting a few of these beauties will ensure a stunning display of flowers in the winter months, whether you live in Sydney, Melbourne or somewhere else entirely.

The best winter flowers for Australian gardens

Lavender

Lavender is water-wise in well-drained areas and responds well to pruning. It can cope in exposed, sunny conditions. Two good yearly prunings (after flowering) will help to keep the plant under control. Follow with a fertiliser, blood and bone, for quick re-growth.

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Winter rose

Hellebores

Plant winter rose (also known as Hellebores) in soil enriched with compost and give it lightly dappled shade. It is perfect for planting beneath deciduous trees. Winter sunshine will encourage more flowers and the summer canopy of the tree overhead will protect it from too much heat.

Daphne

Daphne needs morning sun and protection from cold wind. It also likes moist, cool soil that is well-drained and slightly acidic. It’s worth noting, however, that it can be susceptible to viruses. It’s a good idea to water with Yates Anti Rot.

Bergenia

Plant bergenia under trees and in shady locations. In sunnier areas, flowers dominate at the expense of foliage. Flowers grow in clusters on large stems and open during winter.

Paper daisy

These sweet, small blooms are seeing a surge in popularity, and understandably so – their pink, red, yellow, orange and white variations are the perfect way to add colour to your garden. Plant paper daisies in well-drained soil. For an abundant display of flowers, plant several of them together.

Hardenbergia

Hardenbergia is a flowering native climber, aptly known as the ‘happy wanderer’. Plant in well-drained soil and semi-shade.

Polyanthus

Give Polyanthus plenty of sunshine and it will thrive in either pots or in the garden. Water with a seaweed solution to ensure a healthy plant.

Snowdrop

Snowdrops like to grow in the shade. They’re a great addition to any balcony garden as they flourish in containers.

Luculia

Luculia can be temperamental and hard to establish, but once it settles in, it makes a superb shrub with generous trusses of slender-tubed, rosy pink flowers with the most powerful perfume.

Lily of the valley shrub

Lily of the valley shrub enjoys shady areas under trees in cooler areas of Australia. Keep mulched with fallen autumn leaves. This French good luck offering is also extremely popular at weddings.

Fairy primrose

Fairy primrose, also known as Primula malacoides, is a plant that thrives in pots or the garden. But beware, this pretty plant is capable of producing a toxic reaction if eaten or touched.

Cyclamen

The flowers of Cyclamen are dormant throughout summer but they come alive and show their true colours in autumn and winter.

The post 12 of the most beautiful winter flowers appeared first on Homes To Love.

Whether you are looking for canopy trees that will provide cover for a small garden or something that will give your garden that lush, evergreen look, here are five fast-growing trees that offer ample shade, and instructions on how to plant them.

1. Magnolia ‘Teddy Bear’

This particular species of Magnolia produces glossy green leaves that are bronze on one side. It will grow into a compact, upright tree around four metres tall, and during the warmer months, display large white, fragrant flowers.

‘Teddy Bear’ Magnolia trees are commonly used as feature trees or as informal garden screens, and can even be grown in large planters on a balcony. They thrive in most climates — even coastal conditions — but love regular water and will appear less lush if left too dry.

Tips for growing Magnolia ‘Teddy Bear’

• Pick a spot with partial to full sun and well-draining soil
• Prepare soil with organic matter
• Ensure the hole is twice as wide as the root ball, but no deeper
• Loosen roots before planting
• Backfill soil and firm around the base to remove air pockets
• Water thoroughly and mulch to deter weeds

Regular watering during the establishment phase is crucial, and ongoing maintenance, including pruning to shape and promote healthy growth, will ensure the Magnolia ‘Teddy Bear’ thrives, gracing your garden with its beauty for years to come.

2. Japanese maple

Delicate leaves and glowing autumn colour make the Japanese Maple a worldwide favourite when it comes to fast-growing trees for our backyards. They suit cooler climates, ideally with rich, well-drained soil and protection from the hottest sun and winds.

The coral bark maple (Acer ‘Sango Kaku’) variety is particularly loved for its bright red bark in winter and upswept branches that grow up to five metres tall. There are hundreds of varieties to choose from, including the ‘Seiryu’ which has a similar form but deeply dissected, lacy leaves, and the ‘Atropurpureum’, which reaches a height of four metres and adds interest with bronze-purple foliage in summer.

Tips for growing Japanese Maple

• Pick a spot with filtered sunlight and well-draining soil
• Ensure the hole is twice as wide as the root ball, but no deeper
• Loosen roots before planting
• Backfill soil and firm around the base to remove air pockets
• Water thoroughly and mulch to deter weeds

Regular watering, especially during dry spells, and occasional pruning to maintain shape and remove dead or damaged branches, will aid in this fast-growing shade tree’s long-term health and beauty.

3. Tahitian lime

There are many things to consider when choosing a citrus tree, and Tahitian limes grow best in warmer climates. They bear scented white blossoms as well as fruit and have a lovely, rounded shape which grows to around three metres high.

This fast-growing tree needs a sunny, protected position and well-drained, rich soil. Apply organic-based fertiliser monthly and keep it well watered and mulched, especially when fruit is forming. Limes can be grown in pots, with top-quality potting mix; but mature trees need a pot at least 60cm in diameter.

Tips for growing Tahitian lime

• Select a sunny spot with well-draining soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH
• Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball, but no deeper
• Backfill with soil and water thoroughly
• Keep soil constantly moist during dry periods
• Apply a balanced fertiliser in spring, summer and autumn

To help your Tahitian lime tree grow faster and thrive, it’s best to remove dead branches and leaves around late winter or early spring. This will not only thin out crowded branches, but also promote new growth. It’s also important to monitor your lime tree for pests regularly and to act promptly when detected.

4. Cercis ‘Forest Pansy’

For a spectacle in any season, this pretty five metre-tall shade tree, also known as purple redbud, ticks all boxes. Large, heart-shaped leaves emerge purple-red in spring, and turn purple-tinged green through summer. In autumn they then turn again into gold and apricot before dropping to reveal a graceful framework of branches.

In early spring, ‘Forest Pansy’ produces an abundance of small, purple-pink blossoms directly on the bare branches; cool climates have the best autumn colour. Make sure to protect them from harsh winds and, if you can, plant them in the ground rather than a big pot.

Tips for growing Cercis ‘Forest Pansy’

• Select a spot that receives full to partial sunlight with well-draining soil
• Prepare the soil with organic matter or compost
• Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the root ball
• Backfill with soil and water thoroughly
• Apply mulch to deter weeds

This type of shade tree doesn’t require much pruning, just the removal of dead, damaged or crossing branches to help promote healthy new growth. A balanced fertiliser in spring will encourage blooms, and it’s important to keep an eye out for aphids, scale insects and caterpillars. In cooler climates, you may want to consider a frost cloth for newly planted trees during cold snaps.

5. Dwarf flowering gum

The new Corymbia hybrids are gorgeous. Usually grafted onto robust rootstock so they can thrive outside their native Western Australian locale, they combine masses of super-sized flowers with a small stature. Depending on the variety, colours range from red to orange, pink and white, and heights can be between three and six metres.

Birds, especially lorikeets, love the abundant, nectar-filled blossoms, which are followed by huge gumnuts. If you don’t want the latter, prune after flowering to conserve the plant’s energy and keep it bushy.

Tips for growing Dwarf flowering gum

• Select a spot with full sun and well-draining soil
• Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball, but no deeper
• Backfill with soil and water thoroughly
• Apply mulch to deter weeds

Pruning is rarely required for Dwarf flowering gums, only removing dead branches or reshaping the canopy. It’s best to do any of this pruning after the tree has finished flowering. Apply a slow-release fertiliser during spring, but be careful to avoid over-fertilising as this can impact your flowers. Flowering gums are generally pest resistant, but are prone to root rot in poorly draining-soil, so best to keep an eye on that too.

What is the best tree for shade and privacy?

If you’re not necessarily looking for fast-growing trees to provide extra shade in your garden, there are a range of other trees that will work. Native Australian trees are often a good choice because they adapt well to local environments, but some good trees to look at include jacarandas, Lilly Pilly, gum trees and cypress pines.

If you’re looking for privacy more than shade, fast-growing hedges are a good option, as well as specific screening plants like bamboo.

What trees grow in shade?

If you already have a well-shaded garden and are looking for fast-growing trees that will thrive in such conditions, you could look at some of the below varities.

• Chinese Elm (Ulmus parvifolia): Chinese elms are adaptable trees that can grow in both full sun and partial shade. They are known for their fast growth rate and attractive, dense foliage.
• Australian Willow (Geijera parviflora): Also known as Wilga or Australian willow myrtle, this native tree is well-suited to growing in shade and can reach significant heights relatively quickly.
• Native Hibiscus (Alyogyne huegelii): This Australian native shrub/tree can grow in partial shade and is prized for its fast growth and stunning hibiscus-like flowers.
• Tulipwood (Harpullia pendula): This native rainforest tree can grow in shaded conditions and is valued for its fast growth and attractive foliage.
• Brush Box (Lophostemon confertus): Brush box trees can tolerate partial shade and are prized for their rapid growth, dense foliage, and attractive bark.

The post 5 fast growing shade trees for Australian gardens appeared first on Homes To Love.

Planting a lush entry garden can add a dramatic and eye-catching feature to your home’s exterior, and there are plenty of options to choose from! Depending on the style of your home and its location, you’ll want to consider which garden design style will suit your house best as well as which plants will thrive best.

Do you, for instance, prefer the neutrality of silver leaf plants or the dramatic silhouettes of succulents? Is cloud pruning a look you’re fond of? Or do you prefer the hardy nature of native Australian plants? The possibilities are endless.

To help inspire your home’s front garden, we’ve pulled together 21 of the best ideas to inspire you.

Front garden inspiration for Australian homes

Feature plants and sculptures create drama in this California bungalow’s layered garden. Ground cover plants, such as succulents, create a soft base from which larger plants tower.

The cacti and succulent-laden garden is the perfect fit for this Palm Springs-style home in Henley Beach in Adelaide. Quartzite pebbles and stepping stones add the finishing touch.

This Edwardian-style home sports an earthy green palette that is reflected outside in its native garden. The home’s classic aesthetic is met by an informal garden that boasts flourishing ground cover and organic-shaped stepping stones that lead the way to a timber deck.

The sustainably-clad exterior of this contemporary Booker Bay home is surrounded by olive, yucca and rosemary, which come together to create a silvery garden border to the dark facade.

This Californian-style modernist home in Byron Bay is a mid-century lover’s dream, with its elevated aspect and white facade. In keeping with the home’s Palm-Springs-style aesthetic, the front ‘desert garden’ is minimal, featuring a Livistona palm, golden barrel cactus and a number of agaves.

The garden of this very Australian mid-century era home in Adelaide Hills plays to its strengths; tiered planting, native shrubbery and a towering gum make up the centrepieces of this home’s quintessential exterior.

The classic exterior of this quintessential WWII Queenslander home was retained during the reimagining of its interiors. Here, a large tree shades the facade and perfectly kept grass below it. The garden is partially elevated, with the carport below.

The front entrance garden of this renovated 1930s home is much like the interiors that follow it; understated and minimalist. The planting lets the curves and linear details of the exterior speak for themselves, highlighting architectural details and features.

Dichondra ‘Silver Falls’ spills over the wall, under the canopy of four crepe myrtle trees in the front garden of this home. A shallow bed of succulents on a reinforced and waterproofed garage roof is a clever solution to the sun glare that used to reflect into the house.

A pathway of steppers is a relaxed treatment where a solid path isn’t necessary. These steppers are mini pieces of the main paved area, formed in situ repeating the stone paving.

Creeping kidney weed (dichondra repens) is an effective groundcover in this front garden, preventing the growth of weed and adding a stunning visual alternative to grass. A mature tree such as this frangipani, adds instant age and character to this garden.

Trimmed hedges and young trees create a traditional and formal look in the front garden of this renovated Edwardian house. The rich greenery creates a striking contrast against the home’s red brick facade.

An inviting and easy-to-maintain garden is achieved using sculptural plants and white pebbles that also provide texture in this Moroccan-style home in Melbourne.

An array of lush plants set against a white weatherboard backdrop create a relaxed tropical entry.

While this lush front garden may not boast too many flowering plants, a rich mix of foliage in a range of different shades and silhouettes creates a visually stunning effect.

This Macmasters beach house looks perfect at home in its bush surrounds. The home’s cedar battens highlight the stunning banksia tree in the entryway.

If you’re after a low-maintenance sculptured garden, plants such as Westringia ‘Aussie Box’ and ‘Grey Box’, naturally grow into tight, round balls so you don’t have to clip them into shape.

Inspired by a childhood spent growing up in the bush, this nature-inspired home in Riverview features a front garden filled with shrubs and plants that wouldn’t seem out of place in the wild.

Striking seasonal plants means the look of this garden is constantly changing. The sculptural pruned hedges to the front complement the rigid form of the entryway, adding height and visual depth.

The crisp white exterior of this minimalist-style home makes a statement with a pair of potted trees standing on either side of the door.

Textural foliage serves as a counterbalance to the modern concrete steps. The slope by the steps is planted with miscanthus ‘Hiawatha’ and chalksticks groundcover.

The post 21 thriving front gardens belonging to Australian homes appeared first on Homes To Love.

The Sydney-based couple have two children, Grace, who is almost three, and Hari, who just turned one. Originally from South Australia, Sarah and Arj met at medical school in Adelaide. Their careers as doctors have taken them all over Australia, with a stint in Canada’s Vancouver, but scrolling their home state’s real estate listings during the COVID pandemic inspired a long-term goal to return to Adelaide. Finding Vihara Valley in the heart of the Adelaide Hills set the wheels in motion.

“Even through Facetime, we could tell the place had character and such a beautiful charm. We bought the property without looking at it in person, but my folks did, and they couldn’t stop talking about it,” says Sarah. Her parents, Bob and Penny Hannam (77 and 68, respectively), are the current caretakers of Vihara Valley, which is located 20 minutes from their home in Adelaide’s CBD.

The previous homeowners were an equestrian family who lovingly restored and extended the historic 1860s-era homestead during the 20-plus years of their residency. They also brought structure to the grounds. “The garden was designed to have different things flourishing as the seasons roll through. It’s quite spectacular,” says Sarah.

The family kept horses and built a full-size dressage arena and an American-style barn with multiple stables, wash bays and a tack room. They installed the solar-heated pool by the house, positioning it to take in the postcard-worthy view of the neighbour’s vineyard.

The verandah-wrapped homestead boasts green vistas from every window and set of French doors. The landscaping features the formality of clipped hedges and topiary focal points, the artistry of which is maintained by gardener Barry Godomsk. Hired by the previous homeowners, Barry works at Vihara Valley one day a week. “He is very valuable in helping us understand the seasonality and risks in the garden. We’ve developed a strong relationship working together,” says Bob.

As a retired agricultural scientist dedicated to soil science and agronomy, Bob also brings knowledge and expertise. Hailing from a cattle and sheep farming family in the Adelaide Hills, he is handy with equipment and often works the tractor slasher to maintain the property’s five paddocks. “In addition to that, I am a pretty keen gardener at home, and I like lots of colour. That’s what we are trying to infuse at Vihara Valley,” Bob offers.

Daphne, camellias, salvias and climbers such as jasmine, mandevillas and wisteria promise flushes of colour and an enhancement of the garden’s total sensory appeal through texture, form and fragrance. As for the terrain, Bob explains, “It’s acidic soil, which is quite common in the Adelaide Hills. It’s a sandy loam over solid clay, so it’s not the most fertile, but it’s workable with some fertiliser and plenty of organic matter.”

Many bulbs were already in the ground – including jonquils and daffodils – but Penny planted a mass of daffodils in one paddock to create a bold, chromatic feature. “There is also a very nice creek visible from the house, which we hope to shape into a landscape with beautiful trees,” Bob shares. “We’ve planted claret ash and maple down there already.”

“It’s our family home…where we can eventually watch our grandkids run around the garden.”

In addition, Sarah and Arj talk of putting in grape vines – chardonnay and pinot noir varietals do well in the region – and carving out space for a generous vegetable garden. Gestures like these confirm the family are sculpting a meaningful future at Vihara Valley, visiting as often as their packed schedule allows. “Sydney life is hectic, and this property provides an escape for us. It also gives us something to aim towards when we want to start slowing down,” says Arj. “It’s our family home that we hope to grow old in, where we can eventually watch our grandkids run around the garden.”

The post A “good omen” began a family’s journey with this homestead and its spectacular garden appeared first on Homes To Love.

What are lawn grubs? 

Lawn grubs, also commonly referred to as white grubs or lawn beetle larvae, are the larval stage of various beetle species, including the African black beetle, Argentine stem weevil, and cockchafer beetle, among others. 

These voracious pests are a common nuisance in lawns and gardens across Australia and can cause significant damage to lawns by feeding on grassroots and organic matter in the soil. 

Their presence can often lead to unsightly brown patches, thinning turf and weakened grass that becomes more susceptible to drought, disease and other environmental stressors.

What causes lawn grubs? 

Lawn grubs are the larvae of various beetle species and become a problem when those beetles lay their eggs in the soil, typically during the warmer months of the year. Once the eggs hatch, the larvae emerge and start feeding on the grassroots of the lawn. 

Several factors contribute to the existence and proliferation of lawn grubs. These include:

• Increased beetle activity due to temperature, humidity and food availability can lead to a higher likelihood of lawn grubs. 
• Favourable weather conditions, including warm temperatures and adequate moisture, create the ideal environment for beetles and egg-laying. 
• Lawns with poor soil health, compaction or excessive thatch will be more susceptible to lawn grub infestations. 
• Certain grass species are more attractive to adult beetles for egg-laying. For example, Kikuyu grass is particularly susceptible to African black beetle larvae infestations. 
• Different beetles are more prevalent in different regions. For example, the most common lawn grub beetle in Sydney is the African black beetle (Heteronychus arator), while in Melbourne it’s the Argentinean scarab beetle (Amphimallon solstitiale).

How do you know you have lawn grubs? 

Identifying lawn grubs can be challenging as they typically live below the soil surface, meaning you often only realise they’re there once the damage is already done. However, it should be easy to find them by digging below the surface of any affected areas — typically large brown patches — to reveal their creamy-white, C-shaped bodies.  

Another way to test whether you have lawn grubs is to pour a bucket of soapy water over the edge of an affected area. After 10 minutes, if you have lawn grubs, they will typically come up to the surface. It’s best to do this test at either dawn or dusk as that is when lawn grub are most active.

How do you get rid of lawn grub?

Getting rid of lawn grubs is anything but simple, and requires a multi-pronged approach to target both the larvae and the adult beetles, to prevent future infestations. You will also need to decide whether you’d prefer to take a more natural approach or are prepared to use chemical insecticides in your garden. 

Cover and collect 

Depending on the severity of the situation, you could simply use the soapy water approach to drawing lawn grubs out of your garden. Placing a plastic or hessian sheet over the affected area and misting it will boost humidity and help draw the lawn grubs to the surface. After a few hours, you can either feed them to your chickens or place them in a bucket of scalding water to kill them. 

Introduce beneficial nematodes 

Beneficial nematodes are microscopic roundworms commonly used as natural predators to control a variety of garden pests. They are non-toxic to humans, pets and plants and don’t contaminate soil or water sources. 

Beneficial nematodes will also remain in the soil for some time after they’ve eradicated any lawn grubs, helping prevent further infestations. They are typically sold as a concentrated liquid that can be easily dispersed over the lawn. 

Chemical insecticides 

For more severe cases, it may be necessary to use chemical insecticides. As always, it’s important to research each product and follow the safety instructions carefully. A product with Bifenthrin will help with the fast knockdown of grubs and pests, while Acelepryn will help with long-term protection.

Will grass grow back after lawn grub? 

Depending on how severe the infestation was and what steps were taken to address it, it is entirely possible — and even likely — that your lawn will grow back after a run-in with lawn grubs. It may take between a few weeks and months, though, and will require a little TLC. 

Healthy lawns are, of course, more likely to survive, so to improve your chances it’s best to regularly aerate your lawn to improve soil drainage and reduce thatch buildup. Be sure to fertilise appropriately to promote strong grassroots, avoid overwatering and keep your lawn mowed to its proper height.

• Expert tips on taking care of Buffalo lawns in Australian gardens
• The best lawn species and how to pick the right one
• How to keep your lawn alive during summer and droughts
• The best ways to kill winter grass before it takes over

Want to know more about lawn care?

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Beautiful 2.65 hectare property Merribee has recently hit the market with a price guide of $5.5 million. Spanning five options for guest accommodation, numerous pockets of garden, and two sites created for events and weddings, the sale represents a unique opportunity for those seeking both a country lifestyle and an established business revenue.

You can explore the listing via realestate.com.au

ON THE MARKET

Two decades ago, Lucy and Richard’s hectare of dairy farming land incorporated a series of dilapidated outbuildings and a simple timber workers’ cottage dating back to the area’s European settlement in the mid-1800s. The couple, who were running a high-intensity international executive recruitment firm, bought the property as a reprieve from the demands of their business and as a place to connect with family outside of their primary residence in Sydney.

“We really wanted to be able to go somewhere with our two children on the weekends, where we could grow some things and just be,” explains Lucy, 60. “It was a very fertile place with established trees and alluvial soil, with 150 years’ worth of cow manure through it.”

Today, Lucy’s ‘orchard and one or two roses’ has grown into a European-inspired botanical wonderland known as Merribee, encapsulating nearly three hectares of carefully carved garden rooms featuring magnificent displays of topiary, fields of flora, myriad secluded nooks and shady glades. Merribee is a popular wedding venue, a place for the visiting public to enjoy, and offers a variety of accommodation for guests to stay overnight.

“I completely forgot that I was married to someone who always needed to be busy with 79 projects on the go,” Lucy says with a laugh. “We can’t help ourselves. Richard has to be busy, and I like growing businesses.” The duo’s entrepreneurial spirit was roused in 2004 when they received a request to hold a wedding on site. “At the time, we said, ‘Now someone is getting married here, we need a full-time gardener and, oh gosh, now we need more weddings to pay for the gardener,” adds Lucy.

The Marshalls worked with horticulturalist James Thompson on a project-by-project basis from the early days of Merribee. He was instrumental in creating the structured layout and broad botanic mix.

“We learnt so much from James in observing how he did things, following the classical design principles. He trains well,” Richard, 61, says. Merribee is now maintained by Richard and five gardeners, with both Richard and Lucy driving the creative concepts and design. The couple made Merribee their permanent home in 2020 and reside in an updated 1850s timber cottage.

Historical research underpins many of the new developments at Merribee. “In all that we do here, we like to uncover something interesting that we’ve lost, that we can revive, and that people ought to know about,” says Lucy.

The Heritage Rose Garden, adjacent to the Lavender Paddock, is a living timeline of the rose species. From ancient gallicas and damasks to the albas of the Middle Ages, the plantings map the rose’s evolution and trace the paths of the plant hunters of yore. “It’s a complex history, but it’s really important that we maintain it and pass it on,” Lucy says.

While Richard and Lucy’s design inspirations are grand and global – from the surreal topiary landscape of the Hanging Gardens of Marqueyssac in the Dordogne Valley of France to the Butchart Gardens on Canada’s Vancouver Island – their motivations are simple and humble. The desire to share and educate is the through line for the decisions made at Merribee. Workshops in rose history, propagation and distilling are offered throughout the year, with a lavender festival taking place in the height of summer.

“One of our motivations is to create a place of beauty that everyone can enjoy,” Lucy says.

On open days, patrons young and old sit under the avenue of pleached oaks and elms. You see them on the Viewing Pavilion overlooking the 10,000 buxus plants clipped into all manner of evergreen shapes, but you lose sight of them as they slip through ornate doors set into a thicket of glossy viburnum. Children play in the Edible Garden, where topiarised olive trees and hedges of kaffir lime create secret hollows, or you’ll find them running through fragrant fields of lavender.

Merribee has become the dreamy ‘van Goghian’ setting Lucy envisioned all those years ago; a fecund oasis of botany and spellbinding landscape artistry, with just a few more than ‘a rose or two’.

Visit merribee.com.au or follow @merribeegardens

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Design principles in Japanese gardens feature asymmetry to mimic the natural curves — and lack of strict geometry — in nature, as well as symbolism, where a simple rock could represent a towering hill or mountain, while raked gravel could emulate the mesmerising curvature of an ocean wave. A mindful connection to nature is key.

Serenity and balance are achieved through the use of natural materials like stones, water and of course, plants, with their positioning in the garden often mirroring their natural places of habitat.

• Karesansui, or dry rock garden
• Chaniwa/Roji, or tea garden
• Chisen-shoyū-teien, or pond garden
• Kaiyushiki-teien, or stroll/promenade garden

Different types of Japanese gardens

In Japanese gardens, the inevitable waxing and waning of seasons brings out a different kind of beauty to that of others; instead, it’s one that is built and celebrated for its impermanence.

Ageing, damage, and distortion are considered markers of love and the passage of time, embracing the natural cycle of birth, growth, death and decay. Objects are preserved in their natural state, and much of Japanese garden design revolves around this worldview, also known as Wabi-sabi.

What are the essential elements of a Japanese garden?

• Stone: A symbol of eternity and longevity that grounds the landscape and represents the rolling hills and mountains of Japan, stone is arguably the most ubiquitous material used in Japanese gardens.
• Water: A fundamental element of the Earth, water symbolises renewal, tranquillity and repose and is most often represented in Japanese gardens as a pond or waterfall.
• Plants: While it depends on the style of Japanese garden, common plants used are moss, ornamental pines, bonsai plants, and bamboo for a lush, shady effect. For a splash of autumnal colour, consider Japanese maples or gingko trees.
• Ornaments: Bridges, seated areas and stepping stones are some of the common elements in Japanese gardens that evoke transience and reflection.

How can I design a Japanese garden in an Australian backyard?

“Instead of replicating, we prefer to borrow principles and ideas used in traditional Japanese gardens and apply these to our small space and courtyard designs. Ultimately, it’s about creating a visually beautiful, inviting space that draws you out and into the garden,” says Luke Baldwin, landscape architect & founder of Formed Gardens.

“We’ll use elements like ponds or water features for the atmosphere. Timber and stone benches and steps to sit and reflect within the garden, and small trees to provide scale and shelter. These basic ideas really translate to any style and make for an inviting and successful small garden or courtyard.”

According to the landscape designer, one major challenge for Japanese plants can be hot, dry Australian summers, in which case native species are generally substituted for ones that may look different but still have similar scale and form.

Our favourite Japanese-inspired garden ideas

A potted Japanese maple placed on sleek gravel brings a sense of serenity to this elegant garden in Sydney’s North Shore.

In an ultra-modern residence defined by three types of granite and a subdued colour palette, spherically pruned greenery and delicate foliage bring this urban, Japanese-style courtyard a delightful sense of lightness and ease.

While this inner-city, Australian garden retains the architectural structure of a traditional backyard, elements like the Japanese wisteria give it a sense of subdued, otherworldly calm.

Elements of natural stone covered in soft moss are framed by a delicate crackle-glazed water bowl and lush green foliage in this Japanese-inspired garden in Longueville, Sydney.

This Japanese-influenced garden features a serene water feature along with an array of Japanese maple tree species and natural stone materials to a beautiful effect.

Located in Lennox Head, this tranquil garden incorporates elements of Japanese design like natural stone and traditionally preserved timber that is translated for a classic Australian backyard.

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There are evergreen and deciduous magnolias. Evergreen magnolias (Magnolia grandiflora) flower throughout the year and grow in most areas; deciduous magnolias (such as M. x soulangiana) flower in late winter and are best in cool to temperate zones.

One of the best things about growing magnolias, and one of the reasons you will find them in urban gardens, is their shallow root system, so unlike many trees their size, they won’t disturb underground pipes, footings, foundations or pathways.

Here we look at ten different magnolia varieties to help you find the best fit for your garden.

Magnolia x ‘Iolanthe’

Large, fully-cupped flowers with pink outer petals and an ivory centre. Perfect for Sydney’s climate and makes a sensational small tree, growing to a height and width of 3m.

Magnolia stellata ‘Royal Star’

White star-shaped blooms with a sweet honey fragrance. Best for tubs, lovely rounded shrub grows to 2 x 2m and flowers in late spring. Other hybrids include ‘Waterlily’, which has large white flowers and ‘Rosea’, which is blush-pink.

Magnolia x ‘Heaven Scent’

Upright in its growth habit, with fragrant lavender-pink flowers that are white inside, with pretty in-rolled margins on the petals.

Magnolia x soulangeana ‘Vulcan’

Small compact tree bred by Felix Jury in New Zealand. This variety flowers when young, sprouting scented, deep pink to ruby-red petals that are uniform in tone.

Magnolia × soulangeana ‘Rustica Rubra’

Raised at the end of the 19th century in Boskoop, Holland. It blooms in mid-season with flowers that are reddish-purple in the bud, opening to pink-white in a classic goblet shape.

Magnolia ‘Elizabeth’

A medium-sized tree with yellow tulip-shaped blooms, fading to cream, with a fresh lemon fragrance. When in bloom it looks just like a kaleidoscope of yellow butterflies fluttering in the breeze. This is the last magnolia of the season to flower.

Magnolia x Atlas

A spectacular tree, with blooms that open in the shape of a cognac glass and measure 20cm across. The outside of the petal is pink, with a deep blush at the base, while the interior is ivory-white. Upright when young, the tree rounds out with age to 6m and flowers at an early age.

Magnolia x Tina Durio

A vigorous, tall-growing variety with large, fragrant, crisp white goblet-shaped flowers that are blush-pink at the base. Flowers open wide and eventually measure 25cm across.

Magnolia Apollo

A tall tree that grows to 6m. The dark purple-to-black buds open out to a richly fragrant deep purple flower that fully opens to mid-purple, revealing eye-catching purple stamens.

Magnolia x ‘Dolly Horn’

A medium-sized tree that flowers when young. The blooms have wide-cupped petals, rounded and sensual, in translucent white, with soft pink veining and a blush-pink base.

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Hardy, drought-resistant, and stunningly sculptural, Australian native garden designs are often filled with a harmonious spectrum of native foliage. Did you know that there are over 800 different species of Wattle alone, and some 700 Eucalyptus? Native gardens can attract fauna back into your garden and build thriving ecosystems.

To help you pick the best native Australian plants for your specific area, there are specialist nurseries dotted across the country. One of those is Harvest Seeds & Native Plants in Terrey Hills in NSW, which is run by passional native plant lover, Marina Grassecker.

“Native plants in your garden allows insects and animals to live in comfort, as you are also providing food and habitat for them as well as yourself. They need areas where the plants and native grasses can go wild,” says Marina. And in turn, “protecting and nurturing wildlife will protect us by ensuring pollination of plants and a healthy environment.”

Be inspired by these native garden designs

This garden in the Blue Mountains has to fend for itself most days while enduring blistering summers and frosty winters, so the couple sought advice about hardy, low-maintenance plants from native landscaping experts Wariapendi Nursery in the Southern Highlands.

Walls of stacked stone from the sunken sitting area beside the lake. Fiona Brockhoff incorporated Tussocks and Banksia spinulosa ‘Birthday Candles’ soften the edge of the retaining wall.

The panoramic vistas from this hilltop home on Sydney’s Northern Beaches are matched only by its glorious, true-blue garden.

Part country, part coastal, this expansive garden on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula uses beds of native plants. Native shrubs are pruned lightly into rounded forms.

During the build, owner Imogen Tutton studied horticulture — she has a background in law and advertising — and so before they did anything she came every day and started laying out the garden. “I was on quite a native garden mission and I had this beautiful canvas to do it on, so it was my shovel, my mower, and my dog and me, bit by bit.”

The fabulous planting scheme for this home on Victoria’s Surf Coast is entirely indigenous, which was a requirement of the local council. Landscaping by Hansen Partnership. Home by FMD Architects.

This Perth garden is a model of sustainability – looking after the environment and the wellbeing of the whole family.

Studying native plants and garden design led Kathleen Murphy to create a water-wise oasis at her home where clients can see her work firsthand. Her stunning garden with panoramic views of the Macedon Ranges features a variety of Australian native plants and a contemporary take on the latest in garden ideas and plantings.

The faded timber of the beach house combined with the silverygreens of the native garden, planted by Kate’s husband Mal who is a landscape designer, gives the exterior a beautiful, rustic air.

Indigenous plantings and a coastal aesthetic help blur the boundaries between a new garden and its beachside location.

Melbourne landscape designer, Sam Cox has shaped his bushland garden to replicate a slice of nature. “The masses of planting, mounding and boulders are balanced with the voids of pathways, ponds and pools,” says Sam. The paths are made from Castlemaine slate.

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Perfect for increasing privacy, concealing an eyesore or creating a lush vertical garden, these flowering climbing plants will take your garden from drab to fab in no time.

Here are 12 of the best climbing plant varieties that thrive in Australian gardens: they’re hardy, grow quickly and are easy to look after. The best part? Some of these vines and climbers make fantastic indoor plants too.

What is the easiest climbing plant to grow?

In Australia, the climate can vary significantly depending on the region, so it’s essential to consider the specific conditions of your area when choosing a climbing plant.

However, there are a few climbing plants that are generally easy to grow across the country, including Bougainvillea, Wisteria, Jasmine, Passionflower (Passiflora) and Honeysuckle. Keep scrolling to find out more about these plants.

What is the fast-growing Australian native climber?

One of the fastest-growing native climbers in Australia is the Hardenbergia violacea, commonly known as “Happy Wanderer” or “Purple Coral Pea.” This native Australian plant is known for its vigorous growth habit and ability to quickly cover fences, trellises, and other supports.

Shop the best accessories for climbing plants

12 beautiful vines and creepers for Australian gardens

Clematis

These climbers belong to the buttercup family and are well known for their ability to grow anywhere at any time, with brightly coloured blooms. Several species of clematis have lovely, fragrant flowers. Plant in fertile well-drained soil.

Clematis

Available in a wide range of colours, some varieties also have a pretty scent. Part of the buttercup family, there’s a type of clematis for any climate! Does best in rich, moist soil and likes its foliage in the sun and roots in the shade.

Jasmine

Usually white, white flushed with pink, or yellow, jasmine plants are known for their fragrance, but not all species are perfumed. Jasmine can be propagated from seed, cuttings, or layers and flower generously.

Wisteria

These hardy, vigorous vines are the perfect plants for screening and draping over verandahs and porches, with their dense foliage providing wonderful shade during spring and summer. Often highly fragrant, the flowers can range from white to pink tones. Best grown in a sunny position with well-drained soil.

Honeysuckle

Very hardy climbers, honeysuckle are easy to grow, responding well to trimming and training as hedges. Their tubular, dainty flowers are usually cream inside, with outer colours that come in most shades apart from blue. Some, but not all species are fragrant.

Allamanda

These ornamental tropical shrubs are known for their dramatic trumpet-shaped flowers featuring a flared throat and large bright yellow petals. Best suited to a subtropical or tropical climate, they can be grown indoors as house plants in cooler climates. Beware when pruning – they ooze a milky sap that when cut can lead to skin irritations.

Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis)

Originating from the tropics, these are vigourous climbers when situated in warm to hot climates. Able to be trained to climb vertically, or act as ground cover, their attractiveness comes from brilliantly coloured petal-like bracts. Although drought tolerant, bougainvillea will give the best results in light well-drained soil in a sunny position.

Mandevilla

Available in white, cream and various shades of pink. Likes a mild to warm climate (no frost), dappled sunlight and rich, moist soil. You can propagate them from cuttings or half-hardened stems in summer. Fertilising will make them grow like wild! Take care cutting them back, as they can ooze an irritating milky latex.

Hedera

Commonly known as ivy, this species of evergreen vine is adept at climbing vertically up practically any surface or as a ground cover. Ivy will grow in almost any soil that is not waterlogged, and make excellent house plants.

Ipomoea

Commonly known as morning glory, these are quick to grow and easy to cultivate. Famous for their flamboyant tubular flowers, with a wide range of colours ranging from red to blue, white, purple or yellow, they are ideal for growing over walls, trellises and unsightly fences. Best grown in tropical to warm-temperate areas.

Hoya

Available in white or in pale shades of pink or red often studded at the centre with a contrasting coloured star. They can be grown outdoors in moist, rich, free-draining soil in a partly shaded location, or indoors as an attractive hanging house plant. Beware if hanging indoors – these pretty flowers drip sticky nectar, so choose their location carefully!

Passiflora

Commonly known as passionflowers, these fast-growing climbers can be used to disguise unattractive garden areas. Mainly evergreen, but preferring warmer months, passionflowers come in a variety of colours ranging from pale yellow to purple-red or pink. Keep in full or half-sun with deep, moist, well-drained soil.

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And then there are those of us who seem to be devoid of a green thumb. You know, the sorts of people who struggle to keep their fiddle leaf fig alive and have to watch it slowly drop leaves. The ones who can’t grow a gardenia bush to save their lives, or even a potted herb. Sound like you? If you fear you have the anti-Midas touch when it comes to gardening, fear not. (And don’t turn to fake plants just yet.)

We’ve found 10 low-maintenance plants that are virtually impossible to kill. In fact, you’d have to try really hard to do it. From hardy plants like succulents to softer flowering species, this round-up of plants are the toughest of the bunch and perfect for those who haven’t had much success in the garden.

What is the best plant to grow all year round?

This will, of course, depend on your location and specific climate but one plant that is known for its hardiness and adaptability in various Australian climates is the Kangaroo Paw (Anigozanthos spp.). From inland to coastal environments, Kangaroo Paw will flourish. It is drought-tolerant, suits sandy soils and has long flowering periods.

10 hardy plants to grow indoors and out

Ade plant (Crassula ovate)

Ade plant (Crassula ovate) A compact succulent with great form and pretty heads of pinky-white flowers. It practically thrives on neglect.

Aloe vera

Aloes are reliable, tough and undemanding succulents the produce candles of orange and red flowers from autumn to winter. Birds love them! Grow aloes in full sun in well-drained soil. They’ll also grow in a pot. Water to establish but then only occasionally.

Crepe myrtles

Crepe myrtle is a pretty summer-flowering deciduous tree or tall shrub that’s tougher than its crepe-like pink, mauve or white flowers suggest. Select hybrids from the Indian Summer or Magic Series for trouble-free growth. Small varieties suit sunny courtyards or large containers.

Mother-in-law’s tongue

Mother-in-law’s tongue is one of the easiest of plants to grow. It is a vertical accent plant for a pot indoors or to grow massed in a dry narrow spot against a wall where nothing else grows. It is weedy in warm climates so avoid planting it outdoors in the subtropics and tropics.

Peace lily

Peace lily is one of the world’s favourite indoor plants as it flowers in low light and is hard to kill, but it can also be grown outdoors in a warm, shaded garden or in a vertical garden.

Zanzibar gem

Zanzibar gem (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) is the ultimate survivor, tolerating very low light and lack of water, which makes it a popular house plant.

Canna

Canna ‘Tropicanna’ is grown for its boldly striped leaves, orange flowers and tough attitude. It likes full sun, tolerates wet soil and can be grown in a large pot. It grows to around 1.2-2m high but dies down over winter.

Agapanthus

Agapanthus is a survivor and can be used as a fire retardant planting. It forms clumps of evergreen leaves with heads of blue, white and occasionally pink flowers from late spring to summer. Cut down flowered stems before seeds form as this lovely plant can spread into bushland as a weed. Sterile hybrids such as ‘Black Pantha’ don’t get weedy. Grows in sun or shade but flowers best in sun.

Nasturtium

Nasturtium is an easy-to-grow trailing annual with orange, yellow or bicolour flowers. It grows in sun or shade but flowers best in sun. It won’t last forever but when it dies, new plants grow from the seeds left behind. Pick the edible flowers for a vase or to add to a salad! This is a great plant for kids to grow.

Jasmine

Jasmine is both tough and versatile. It can grow as a no-fuss groundcover or a climber in sun or shade. The star-like flowers are heavily perfumed and cover the plant in mid-spring. It’s evergreen and flowers best in full sun trained against a wall. It has milky sap like some of these other tough plants

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